Folding Fan History

The kind of fan a Gilded Age or Victorian lady carried, depended on her social status. The well-dressed woman possessed a fan for every occasion and she was obligated to handle her fans properly. – Image source, Pinterest

Historical Background

The word “fan” comes from “vannis,” the Latin name for a tool used to winnow grain. and the earliest use of fans was around 3000 BC.

Japan is generally credited with inventing the folding fan. This important innovation was superior to rigid screen fans because the fan could become smaller and was easier to handle for everyday use. The folding fan could possibly have been derived from “mokkan” - thin, small slices of wood used for writing. About two dozen mokkan could be joined at one end. When the sticks are spread apart, they form the ribs of an open fan. By the 10th century folding paper fans (called “ogi”) were not only in use throughout Japan, they had traveled to China by way of Korea. The oldest surviving pleated Japanese fan is from the 12th century.

The fan in Japan symbolizes friendship, respect and good wishes. It is a gift that is given to people on special occasions. Fans were mostly used in social and court functions. Symbolically, the fan stands for many things. The Japanese believe that the handle of the fan symbolizes the beginning of life and the radiating ribs represent the many paths of life one can take in all directions.

Georgian (1714-1837) fans often represented the most exquisite "objets d'art" which were the perfect gift for a lady in an era which cultivated good taste, and connoisseurship of the hand-crafted object. Fans also had a particular place in the traditions of masquerade that developed across Europe in the past century, masking the faces of their owners, as part of an elaborate ritual of flirtation.

Upper class Victorian (1837-1901) ladies did not work and had the leisure to perfect their image. These ladies generally stayed at home in the mornings and visited freinds and neighbors for afternoon tea or socialized at other events. They changed their morning clothes for afternoon events and then changed again for the last meal of the day. 

Dinner attire was much more elegant with jewelry, exquisite fans and stoles. The folding fan became a natural complimentary object for a woman to carry where ever she went and fashioned basically required them. The kind of fan a Victorian lady carried depended on her social status. The well-dressed woman possessed a fan for every occasion and was obligated to handle it properly.

By 1865, fans were an indispensable fashion accessory for the emerging middle class; some of the grander fans were clearly for pageantry; more modest fans displayed the perceived delights of the Industrial Age - vibrant aniline dye colors, machine lace, gaudy prints and painted leaves.

In conclusion, few art forms combine function, decorative art, communication, performing dance, and ceremonial purpose as elegantly as the fan. It is ideal for demonstrating refined etiquette, practicing the “language of fans,” or just cooling yourself off. Since it is lightweight, it can be conveniently carried in a purse or pocket. And, of course, it is a must have item for the child who wants to give a “serious” make-believe tea party for her friends or dolls. This fan is also an elegant gift! —Historical Folk Toys, 2014

 🍽️Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber of The RSVP Institute of Etiquette, is the Site Editor of the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia