Indian Food Culture

India’s food culture is monolithic. From the tip of the south to the very north, there are thousands of variations found in home-style cooking, restaurants’ specialities and street vendors, each will vary slightly across every state and region. I thought that over the years of patronizing Indian restaurants in Australia, I knew what to expect, gauging from the menu, but the enormity of choice outshines the Australian offerings. Once I lived in India, I realized Australian Indo-Pakistani restaurants taint food to be more palatable for the Western public and open to a wider paying audience.

Launched in 2002 and initiated by the Ministry of Tourism with the tagline “Incredible India,” featuring Bollywood actors such as Aamir Khan, Amitabh Bachchan, and Priyanka Chopra, the ads seduced people to travel to India, and they had quite an effect on me. It captivated my mind and tingled my taste buds. I couldn’t wait, I knew one day I would go…

India's food culture is monolithic. From the tip of the south to the very north, there are thousands of variations found in home-style cooking, restaurants' specialities and street vendors, each will vary slightly across every state and region. I thought that over the years of patronising Indian restaurants in Australia, I knew what to expect, gauging from the menu, but the enormity of choice outshines the Australian offerings. Once I lived in India, I realised Australian Indo-Pakistani restaurants taint food to be more palatable for the Western public and open to a wider paying audience.

Can Tourist Eat Street Food in India and is it Safe?

Street food is for the brave and adventurous. Food is never served plain and gloves are not used. Yes, there were times I got sick, and I recovered after a day or two. Whilst living in Mumbai, I appreciated the small stalls on the side of the street. I would visit regulars who knew me by name.

Please note: if you feel that eating street food, as described below, may put your health at risk, go to a reputable day restaurant and order the same meals there, which will be more expensive but just as good. Also, each restaurant or street vendor – wala, has its own family recipe and it will vary state to state or even street to street. Good street stalls are only open for a few hours, so ask locals for recommendations.

What is the Most Popular Street Food in Mumbai?

How did I initially go about approaching these stalls by myself? I would wait till people were milling about the wala. If there were a fair number of people, I knew it was ‘hygienic enough’ and would watch the food he was serving, how he served it and how people ate the dish. I would approach and point to a person’s food or point to the picture that was wrapped around his cart.

Breakfast

Samosa or Vada Pav: this is a fried vegetarian samosa or vada pav, a fried potato patty placed into a very soft bread roll with two types of chutneys – coriander and mint: savory and tamarind: sweet. Once the wala puts the samosa into the bread roll, he may hand it to you on a recycled newspaper with one or two fried whole chilli. This is definitely finger food, no etiquette required.

Chai or Coffee: chai is tea in Hindi. Boiled tea with milk and sugar, with a dash of ginger, is served so hot that you have to wait for it to cool down. You will be given tea in small medicine-type cups on the street. If you are in a rush, you will have to blow on it to cool it down. You may be provided a pottery cup without handles, wrap a serviette around it so you are able to drink from it because of the heat. In restaurants, you can be given a brass Dabara Set, which is a handleless cup with a tumbler. You can pour your coffee or tea, instead of blowing on it into the tumbler, then back into your cup and over again until it cools. You can also drink from the tumbler. I’ve seen Aunties and Uncles pouring their chai from their handleless cup to their saucer, drinking their cooled tea from their saucer.

Lunch

Pav Bhaji: fresh, thick spicy vegetable curry served with a soft buttered bread roll. This dish is put into a tray, and you will use the bread to pick up the fresh curry to eat. You will tear a piece of bread using the ‘La Scarpetta' method, which means using the bread like a shoe, ‘walking’ across the tray, cleaning up the star of the meal. Sit down while eating this simple yet tasty meal. If you have finished your bread roll, you can ask for another or ask for a spoon to eat the last remnants of curry.

Dosa: is an ultra-thin, crunchy, savoury batter bread made from a fermented batter of ground black gram and rice. Dosas are served hot with a filling inside. You can choose the filling to be vegetarian or paneer. The dosa will come with side dishes such as coconut chutney and sambar. Sambar is a tangy lentil vegetable stew. You break a piece of dosa with its filling, dipping it into the sambar or chutney before eating. This is a meal you need to sit down as you will need the space and definitely you will be eating with your fingers. You will be laughed at for using a fork and a knife. I’ve been in five-star hotels where I have seen celebrities and the rich of India use their fingers to eat these delicious dishes.

Afternoon Tea

Bombay Sandwich: is flat white sliced bread with thinly sliced layered vegetables like potatoes, beetroot, tomatoes, onions, and cucumber with a spread of spicy green chutney, then toasted. This is a great food to eat standing up or while on the run. It will be wrapped in yesterday's newspaper or pages from a kids' workbook. I loved this street food as it was just what I needed, replacing lunch without spending too much time in a restaurant or cooking for myself at home.

Before Dinner

Pani Puri: is a disc that, when it is deep-fried, becomes a shell, hollowed out for a filling such as potatoes or chickpeas, and dipped in flavoured sauces such as coriander and mint and sweet tamarind sauce. Depending on the wala, he will provide approx. Six to seven rounds and will serve up to three to four people at a time, taking it in turns to fill each puri and serve it to you, with it filled with sauces on a foil bowl, which you eat instantly whole using your fingers, bringing the bowl to your mouth. Your fingers will become wet, the wala will provide you with a napkin. The last puri served will be dry, to indicate to you that the meal is over.

Bhelpuri: is a savoury snack or chaat, made of puffed rice, crunchy puris, peanuts and sev, which are layered with ingredients such as potato and onion, tomato and topped with chutneys such as coriander and tamarind chutney. You can eat this standing around the food station, using a spoon or a flat papdi, which is a round cracker. This is a snack you would have before dinner, which would be served around 8-9 pm at night. Happy Eating!

For many years, Etiquipedia contributor, Elizabeth Soos, has had a keen interest in cultural customs. With her European background and extensive travel, Soos developed an interest in the many forms of respect and cultural expectations in the countries she has visited. With her 20 years’ experience in customer service within private international companies based in Australia, and her lifetime interest in manners and research, she decided to branch out into the field of etiquette and deportment. Through her self-directed studies and by completing the Train-The-Trainer’s course offered by Emma Dupont’s School of Etiquette in London and by Guillaume Rue de Bernadac at Academie de Bernadac based in Paris and Shanghai, she founded Auersmont School of Etiquette

🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, of The RSVP Institute of Etiquette, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Etiquette for the Busy Indian Day

Mornings often begin with preparing lunch for the family—commonly for children heading to school or a spouse heading to work.

Hectic Life in an Average Indian Home

Have you ever taken an evening stroll through your neighbourhood and found yourself wondering about the lives unfolding behind the windows and walls around you? While it may seem like an unusual thought, it sparks a deeper curiosity: what does a day in the life of the average Indian look like?

Living in India has given me a unique glimpse into everyday life, particularly the routines and dynamics within households. The following is what I observed:

Mornings often begin with preparing lunch for the family—commonly for children heading to school or a spouse heading to work. In many households, hired help is integral to daily life. Domestic workers, referred to locally as “maids,” are usually women, though it’s not uncommon to find young men taking up this role as their primary source of income.

The day for many homemakers and remote workers starts with letting in the maid and assigning the day’s tasks. This process struck me as quite different from Western practices. In India, a close eye is often kept on the maid’s work to ensure it meets expectations. For someone from the West, where the typical approach is to outline tasks and trust that they will be completed to a satisfactory standard without constant supervision, this can feel unfamiliar, even uncomfortable.

When I asked local friends about this practice, they explained that close supervision is seen as necessary to prevent shortcuts. Maids are often managing multiple houses and might be tempted to rush through their work to move on to the next. The sentiment shared was: “I don't play around with my money – I want to see it work for me.” While understandable, the process seems exhausting to me as an outsider.

If you’re visiting a friend’s apartment in Mumbai, be prepared for some common entry protocols. At the gate, the security guard will likely stop you, as unfamiliar faces are routinely checked. Be sure to have your host’s full name and apartment number handy. In some cases, you may be directed to the doorman, who might take your photo and collect your details for a security app. This ensures a smoother entry on future visits, as your information will be stored and verified.

In older buildings, you may need to climb stairs — less than ideal in Mumbai’s heat. In newer apartments, you’ll often encounter a double-door entry system: a folding gate followed by the main door. For the elevator to function, you must open and securely close both doors each time you enter or exit. A friendly heads-up: as you leave the apartment after a warm and welcoming visit, and enter the elevator, be prepared for a rush. You might find yourself navigating a flurry of activity, much like stepping off a Mumbai train, with residents eager to get home or maids hurrying between houses to finish their day.

What should you bring as a gift to your hosts house? I have found with trial and error that anything from overseas is perfect, such as chocolates, sweets in generous packaging, tea in a tin and, if you know the man of the house very well, a whiskey. In Mumbai and other states, if you want to bring alcohol to a hosts house and you know that they drink alcohol, as many do not, its best a man go to the shop’s front rather than a woman. As a foreigner, all eyes are on you, as you leave the apartment, on the street, on the bus as I found out one day. I got onto a bus on my usual route and the driver said he had not seen me awhile and I explained that I had moved apartments. Very observant of the driver!

Front doors in India are vibrant and often showcase the family’s name alongside symbols of faith and cultural identity. Hindu households may display torana or bandanwar (decorative hangings of marigolds or mango leaves for good luck), swastika or om symbols for blessings, or items like a kalash or gudi (traditional Maharashtrian flag) during festivals. Some Christian homes might feature a cross, while Muslim homes often have plaques with quranic inscriptions such as “bismillah-ir-rahman-ir-rahim” for blessings and protection. Additionally, some homes use black threads or amulets to ward off negative energies, reflecting a blend of religious and cultural traditions.

Upon removing your shoes and placing them by the door or on a shoe rack — rest assured, they’re unlikely to go missing —you’ll step inside barefoot and be warmly welcomed by your host and their family. Greetings often include a friendly namaste, with hands pressed together, accompanied by introductions to those present. While some Indians may offer a hug or a kiss, it’s best to mirror their approach if they don’t initiate such gestures. Your host will then guide you to take a seat on the sofa, making you feel right at home.

As you take a seat, you’ll be offered water on a tray. It’s a kind gesture rooted in an ancient tradition of hospitality, meant to refresh guests after their journey and set a welcoming tone. It’s polite to accept and appreciate this thoughtful offering. Afterward, the conversation typically begins with inquiries about your health and family, and it’s customary to reciprocate. 

You may be offered chai by your host after drinking water. Please don’t say ‘yes, I’ll have chai tea’, your host will have a wide smile and say ‘chai means tea’ and laugh. 

A compliment about your host’s home, family and work, is always a great way to keep the conversation flowing. Other ice-breakers are asking and knowing about the latest Bollywood movies, actors and actresses and asking who’s your favourite or what is it about the film you like the most? I don’t want to scare you… but you must be very prepared for the next to come… to be asked questions that would be relegated to the ‘no-go-zone’ in western countries such as ‘how much is your rent?’, ‘how much do you get teaching?’, ‘why don’t you have children?’, ‘how much is your house worth?’ and so it goes on. Being prepared is key.

Don’t be surprised if the men break off on a different couch or in a room completely, leaving the women to talk or walk off to the kitchen together. This is a common social dynamic in many Indian cultures, where gender roles and expectations can influence social interactions.

During your visit, you’ll notice the host managing various household tasks. If they have a full-time domestic helper, you might observe them providing instructions, often related to meal preparation. If the host is preparing the meal themselves, expect them to move in and out of the kitchen, with the dining set-up unfolding gradually, rather than being prearranged.

When it’s time to eat, be prepared for a generous serving of food, including a mountain of rice accompanied by roti, papad, and an array of curries. To enjoy the meal gracefully without overwhelming yourself, use the roti or papad to eat with the curries, and reserve the rice for lighter dishes like dal. To politely manage the over-abundance of rice, take small portions and express your appreciation for the delicious meal, emphasising its loving preparation while explaining that you have a small appetite. This approach shows gratitude while ensuring you don’t offend your host.

I didn’t mention this before, you may be offered chai by your host after drinking water. Please don’t say ‘yes, I’ll have chai tea’, your host will have a wide smile and say ‘chai means tea’ and laugh. After your meal you may be offered chai again. Just remember that chai is very sweet and, depending on your host, might be flavoured with a choice of green cardamom, ginger — a winning combination – or even pepper, which is not too bad.

Whilst you are back on the sofa, sipping and talking, with those from Maharashtra, I have found when there is disapproval, affirmation or correction on a subject you are talking about, they will click with their tongue to emphasise how they feel. It’s really an interesting thing that they do and after a while I started doing when speaking in Hindi or English.

Please note that unless you know your host well or you have very important work to do the next day, I mean if you are meeting the Prime Minister of India – an important day, to say the least – then your lunch and dinner meal will run very late and overtime. Have yourself a small snack before your enter uber or a rickshaw, that will fill the gurling in your stomach. A day after the event, it’s nice to say thank you and follow up with a text of pleasantries.

 

For many years, Etiquipedia contributor, Elizabeth Soos, has had a keen interest in cultural customs. With her European background and extensive travel, Soos developed an interest in the many forms of respect and cultural expectations in the countries she has visited. With her 20 years’ experience in customer service within private international companies based in Australia, and her lifetime interest in manners and research, she decided to branch out into the field of etiquette and deportment. Through her self-directed studies and by completing the Train-The-Trainer’s course offered by Emma Dupont’s School of Etiquette in London and by Guillaume Rue de Bernadac at Academie de Bernadac based in Paris and Shanghai, she founded Auersmont School of Etiquette. Elizabeth is currently traveling throughout India and brushing up on her Hindi.

 🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Indian Dining at the First Table

A view of one of the side tables in the banquet hall with finger bowls and cups and saucers laid out ready to give to the guests as the banquet progresses… – the book, “Around India's First Table : Dining and Entertaining at the Rashtrapati Bhavan”

During the 1950s and 60s, while India was finding her place in the world, the Rashtrapati Bhavan was visited by numerous foreign heads of state. The Soviet Union's premier and the first secretary of the Communist party, Nikolai Bulganin and Nikita Khrushchev, made the first official Russian visit to India in 1955 and Zhou En-lai the Chinese premier paid a visit in 1960. Queen Elizabeth II and the heads of newly independent African countries Zaire, Zambia and Tanzania came to celebrate India's Independence on different Republic Days. President Prasad was reportedly gloomy about the prospect of atheist communists eating meat and drinking alcohol in the guest suite where a special room, supplied with alcoholic beverages, had been set up for the Russians." The staff, however, enjoyed these visits. 

"Those days were fun, reminisced Abdul Majeed, a retired butler who worked at the house in the early years of the presidency. 'All heads of states used to stay here in [the] Dwarka suite and were served all the meals by us. 12 The Russian delegation did their best not to offend Indian sensibilities by avoiding the drinks room but they were apparently hearty eaters and in between formal meals would send up for extras such as omelettes and sandwiches. While the tips were marvelous, the butlers derived most of their satisfaction from the pride they took in working for the representative of their newly independent nation.

The Indian state gradually grew into and made its own the traditions and protocol that it had inherited from the Raj. In the early days the portraits of past viceroys still hung on the walls of the banquet hall. Gradually these were moved out of the room and replaced by paintings of India's former presidents. At first, the food served at the Rashtrapati Bhavan continued to be Anglicised-French in style, as it had been during the tenure of the viceroy. French food was vegetables mashed and then shaped to look like chops and fried. The main course was caneton à la diable, peas with cauliflower and roast potatoes. The duck in a piquant mustard and cayenne sauce was a touch of French sophistication. 

The alternative vegetarian main course was the only part of the meal which gave away the fact that the dinner was taking place in India. Indrani was served aloo dum, cauliflower curry, raita, papad and chutney. The red rose indicating her vegetarian preferences was an Indian innovation. During the British period, the vegetarian and other food preferences of the guests were indicated to the butlers by ribbons tied to the backs of the chairs. Just as both the vegetarian and non- vegetarian meal began with a very British soup, they both ended with the same very British dessert, pommes Chantilly or stewed apples decorated with swirls of cream. — Contributed by Elizabeth Soos of Auersmont Etiquette, from the book, “Around India's First Table : Dining and Entertaining at the Rashtrapati Bhavan”

For many years, Etiquipedia contributor, Elizabeth Soos, has had a keen interest in cultural customs. With her European background and extensive travel, Soos developed an interest in the many forms of respect and cultural expectations in the countries she has visited. With her 20 years’ experience in customer service within private international companies based in Australia, and her lifetime interest in manners and research, she decided to branch out into the field of etiquette and deportment. Through her self-directed studies and by completing the Train-The-Trainer’s course offered by Emma Dupont’s School of Etiquette in London and by Guillaume Rue de Bernadac at Academie de Bernadac based in Paris and Shanghai, she founded Auersmont School of Etiquette. Elizabeth is currently traveling throughout India and brushing up on her Hindi.

 🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Indian Dining and Table Etiquette

Currently, I am immersed in the vibrant culture of incredible India. I've had the pleasure of indulging in sumptuous curries ranging from meat to vegetables, grains and pulses using the age-old tradition of eating curry with one's fingers as I travel India or known locally as Bharat ( derived from the Sanskrit name for the country.) I've embraced the centuries-old motto and tweaked it a little, 'When in India, do as the Indians do.' I've found myself eschewing utensils in favour of the tactile connection afforded by using my fingers. It's a practice that prompted a deeper reflection on the origins of utensil use.

The act of eating with one's hands also has historical and utensil-usage implications. In the book ‘Feeding Desire: Design and the Tools of the Table, 1500-2005’ Coffin et al. explains that utensils like knives, forks, and spoons have enriched our dining experiences by acting as extensions of our hands, suggesting an evolution from direct hand-to-food to changes in dining etiquettes and experiences over centuries.

Eating with your hands is not just a cultural norm, it's an integral part of the dining experience. Using your fingers to scoop up flavourful curries with rice or bread connects you more intimately with the food and heightens the sensory experience. Before you start, most restaurants will make a basin available in the dining room to wash your hands. Traditionally, you will use your right hand to eat, as the left hand is considered unclean.

Bread, known as roti, naan, paratha, chapati, and the list goes on, are just a few examples of the diverse array of breads found in Indian cuisine, each with its unique texture, flavour, and cooking method. These breads are central to Indian cuisine, serving as the perfect accompaniment to curries that could contain lentils or chickpeas, and grilled meats. They are my favourite accompaniment to an Indian meal. I use two techniques. One is to tear the bread and pick up the ‘dry’ curry with the bread. The second is to fold the bread in a cone shape to pick up the ‘wet’ curries.

Another way to eat curry is with rice. Depending on what part of India you are in, rice will vary from basmati to laal chawal, laal meaning red. You will be given a large serving of rice with various curries surrounding it. Find a clean space on your thali plate to scoop up a small portion of rice and curry. Mix the curry with the rice using only your fingertips, not the whole hand. This is done so the curry is absorbed into the rice, ready for you to eat and enjoy. Gently picking up the mixed food with your fingers, shape the rice and curry into a small bite-sized portion. Push the bite of food into your mouth by sliding the food down your fingers levered by your thumb. Be careful not to let your fingers touch your lips.

I hope this information is helpful to you. It’s always good to try to do as the locals do. It helps ensure that your culinary experiences in India are conducted with cultural sensitivity and authenticity. - Source, “Feeding Desire: Design and the Tools of the Table, 1500-2005”

For many years, Etiquipedia contributor, Elizabeth Soos, has had a keen interest in cultural customs. With her European background and extensive travel, Soos developed an interest in the many forms of respect and cultural expectations in the countries she has visited. With her 20 years’ experience in customer service within private international companies based in Australia, and her lifetime interest in manners and research, she decided to branch out into the field of etiquette and deportment. Through her self-directed studies and by completing the Train-The-Trainer’s course offered by Emma Dupont’s School of Etiquette in London and by Guillaume Rue de Bernadac at Academie de Bernadac based in Paris and Shanghai, she founded Auersmont School of Etiquette. Elizabeth is currently traveling throughout India and brushing up on her Hindi.

🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia