More Mourning Attire Etiquette 1908

Collar and cuffs sets of white crepe. – Worn with mourning attire, they serve to relieve the gloominess of all black. Dull fabrics for whites are required.

Collars and cuffs are worn with mourning and serve to relieve the gloominess of all black. Organdy generally is worn by widows throughout the entire period, and linen and several other materials are worn by other members of the family. These dainty accessories require care and thought to arrange properly. Organdy does not launder satisfactorily and must be discarded after a short time. 

One way of adjusting is to cut foundations from stiff black crinoline the width of the cuff, smaller on the wrist edge. On this the organdy is basted, after being folded to fit it, a single edge one inch deep being turned under to represent a hem. On one side of the cuff sew small white linen buttons, three or four, according to its width, and opposite these cut buttonholes through both crinoline and organdy. If carefully done this will be neat.

The finishing of seams, methods or hemming, setting in of lace, etc… are of unfailing interest to women who like to sew well. In any white work it is exceedingly bad to leave a raw edge. In years gone by many women in making the long seams on underwear would stitch it on the wrong side on the machine, then have a quarter inch edge left which was overcast together in the finest possible manner. The reason for this was that it was supposed to lie so flat, iron more easily, and look better when done. But the French or felled seams, if not clumsily done, make a fine finish and are generally preferred.

When one can take the time and can sew evenly these seams are sometimes done by hand. This almost seems a waste of time, when nearly all of us have so many calls on our time. But if the work is to be hand sewed, the first sewing of either of the seams named is done by taking several running stitches and then a back stitch. In the finish of the felled seam it Is hemmed, and in the French seam it generally is run. To look neat the stitches must be tiny ones and perfectly even. 

A French seam is made by running and back stitching a seam on the right side or stitching it on the machine, trimming it off close, creasing it well. and, turning to the wrong side, a second row of stitch- ing is put in, which covers the first row. The finished seam should not be over an eighth of an inch wide. A felled seam is stitched first on the wrong side, then one edge is trimmed close to the stitching, and the other edge is turned over and hemmed down. It is a nice finish to do this hemming by hand. The finished width should be the same as the other. _San Francisco Call, 1908

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Mourning Attire Etiquette in 1908

Mourning clothes of today are much less depressing and easier to wear than formerly. This has direct reference to hats and bonnets. There may be said to be almost a touch of coquetry given to the hats, many are so bewitchingly shaped and trimmed and the short veils are so becomingly draped. One seldom sees the long crêpe vell worn over the face now. Instead a transparent veil has a border of crêpe or dull silk, and the long veil is draped at the back of the hat or toque.

  

Styles in Mourning Garments Show a Tendency Toward a Softening of the Somber Tone

WHILE there are some people who do not approve of dressing in black when some near and dearly beloved relative dies, probably the majority feel differently and feel that they must go into mourning; that it not only shows respect to the one who has died, but that in a measure it is a protection to themselves. Like many another question it is not an easy task to choose a mourning outfit when the purse is light, while if money does not have to be considered the matter is made an easy one.

The first thing that must be considered in choosing materials is quality. Nothing is a much poorer investment in the clothes line than cheap black goods, while black cloths of good quality wear long and satisfactorily. While the first cost of going Into mourning may be considerable, it is the reverse afterward, as the same gown may be worn on almost every occasion, the same suit also doing good duty, and nothing like the variety is needed in hats, gloves, parasols, and the various accessories.

Mourning clothes of today are much less depressing and easier to wear than formerly. This has direct reference to hats and bonnets. There may be said to be almost a touch of coquetry given to the hats, many are so bewitchingly shaped and trimmed and the short veils are so becomingly draped. One seldom sees the long crêpe vell worn over the face now. Instead a transparent veil has a border of crêpe or dull silk, and the long veil is draped at the back of the hat or toque.

The long veils may be of crêpe silk which comes especially for the purpose, or brussels net. There is nothing much richer or handsomer than crêpe, used either for a veil or for trimming, and it is better finish, softer, wears better, and is less expensive than formerly.

Deep mourning is supposed to be worn only six months or a year, and then is lightened decidedly. There are doubtless a great many who pay no attention to these dictates of fashion, but yield instead to their inclination to wear the same depth of mourning for a much longer period. People in deep mourning should wear plain clothes; elaborate trimmings, glossy cloths, and silks are all out of place. – San Francisco Call, 1908

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Etiquette from Mrs. Adams

“In the days of Louis XIV and XV, fans glistened with gilding and gems, and were ornamented by Boucher and Watteau. These works of art were often sold at as high a figure as $75. The Chinese and French are the great rivals in fan making. To such a degree of excellence has it arrived in France, that a fan selling for one cent, goes through twenty different operations, performed by as many pairs of hands.” -The Origins of Fans, 1878

On Fans

Dear Mrs. Adams– 

Please tell me the proper way fans are carried or worn at formal gatherings. –An Interested Reader

Sometimes the fan is worn on a chain, and then again, it is merely carried in the hand.

On Correct Dress 

Dear Mrs. Adams– 

Kindly inform me as to the correct dress, hat, shoes, etc., for a woman who rides horseback. –A Reader 

The most sensible outfit is of rough woolen goods, the skirt divided if you ride astride, saddle-back otherwise, with no superfluous material. The coat should be strictly mannish in cut, that is cut away at the lower edge in rounded lines. The pique or linen stock collar, with a plain pin, is the most suitable style to wear, with a shirtwaist underneath the coat. 

The derby hat for women is now low crowned and has quite a wide straight brim; but if this style is not becoming to you, a plain velour felt or beaver shape is just as good. It can be kept on the head firmly by a broad elastic band and hatpin. Riding gloves should be quite large, and can be either the gauntlet or the regular short type. With this costume a riding crop is necessary, and also boots, either tan or black, patent leather or calfskin. Comfort should be your first consideration, and a neat, modish appearance your second. – San Francisco Call, 1911

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A Barbarous Etiquette?

Bertie was, according to Professor Jane Ridley, “the first English Prince to visit Jerusalem since Richard the Lionheart, but he got on much better with the Muslims than the Crusader did.” – 

Nearly 40 years prior to becoming King Edward VII, young Prince Albert, known as Bertie, was sent by Queen Victoria on a Royal tour of Egypt and the Holy Places of Palestine and Syria.This trip became the template for the British Royals and tours we know of today, not least because it was the first that the people could actually see as an official photographer, Francis Bedford, accompanied the Prince. While on the tour, in a move that even today’s Royal Princes might consider a step too far – Bertie got a tattoo on his forearm  – five crosses forming a Crusader’s Jerusalem cross.  

The order issued by the King of Great Britain for his first entry into Parliament includes a requirement that women participating shall wear dresses cut low. The affair will take place in the afternoon. The order must, therefore, shock the American flunkies, who maintain that a swallow-tail coat and a low-necked gown must never be worn before 6 o'clock, summer or winter. There are men and women who profoundly wish that neither a swallow-tail coat nor a low-necked dress should ever be worn, with an exception in favor of cutting out the dress bodice modestly for coolness in the heated term. The objection to the Royal and Imperial British order for low-necked dresses when the Emperor of India opens the houses of Parliament is, however, purely humane. 

Every woman who can will endeavor to be present on so exciting an occasion. The order is absolute as to exposure of the shoulders and bust to winter weather, whatever it may be that day. Pneumonia is as prevalent in London as in Chicago, perhaps more so. The doctors will have a profitable increase of business following the day the Emperor of India appears before Parliament. Nor should the new Monarch be hastily censured for this barbarous ritual. He has said that he will follow the steps of the late Monarch, who never relaxed or suspended this rule at her drawing rooms, always held by day, and always the cause of serious illness, with their full proportion of consequent deaths. This is one of the objects for which Monarchies are maintained — to thin out the population.— Chicago Chronicle, 1901

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Etiquette Epitomized for Women

Woman's redingote, c. 1790. Silk and cotton satin and plain weave. Los Angeles County Museum of Art

1905 in “Winter Women’s World”

A New Walk 

“A new figure and a new poise have been called into existence by the winter fashions. A slow, languorous movement of the limbs is therefore cultivated, as being more conducive to grace when wearing the long redingote coat and the newly introduced ‘Princess Styles.’ The new walk is just a little suggestive of the ‘Gibson Girl,’ but in a modified form. 

“The figure is held upright at the shoulders, with the slightest forward bend at the waist, the head is erect, the chin in, and the legs swing from the hips. The practice of sleeping on the back or one side is fatal to the new poise. If the woman of fashion would look tall and stately she must sleep face downwards, with a small pillow tightly wedged under her chin in order to avoid suffocation.”

Etiquette Epitomized

A written reply to the hostess is required to a written invitation to a dinner luncheon or card party.

The first invitation from a new acquaintance should always, where it is possible, be accepted.

When rising from the table at a dinner, luncheon, etc., It is not necessary to replace one’s chair.

At the leave-taking, it is permissible, and an act of friendship and courtesy, to shake hands with your hostess. – Los Angeles Herald, 1905

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia Etiquette Encyclopedia 

Edwardian Handkerchief Etiquette

The lace handkerchief of two generations ago, was not more necessary to the woman of those days than the fine little linen ones nowadays...

New Year Handkerchiefs –After a long period, during which the pocket, handkerchief was banished from public gaze and relegated to an inner pocket, there comes a time when it can be brought out again. Not only is it now permissible, but it has become actually an object of beauty and part of dress. 

The lace handkerchief of two generations ago, was not more necessary to the woman of those days than the fine little linen ones nowadays. With the New Year gown, it must be carried in the hand, or it may be tucked in the front of one's corsage, or even slipped in the sleeve, if that be long. It can be arranged to hide in the belt with pretty little ends projecting, or it can be merely a matter of ornament, of dalliance, for the fingers. The handkerchief ring is also in process of revival, and may be soon seen again. A ring, with chain it is, to which is attached a ring through which the handkerchief is drawn.

The new linen handkerchiefs are very small and of very fine linen. Their border is narrow, and the main claim to beauty consists of the embroidery that is in one corner. This is in the form of a little wreath, with the initial inside, the wreath worked out en colors. Or it may be a little white silk eagle, with a wreath beneath it and an initial inside the wreath. The family crest is very good upon the corner of the handkerchief, and can be done “quartered” in full colors, to make a very brave heraldic design. The 1902 handkerchief is a trifle that wins favor. It is a little linen affair, with 1902 embroidered on one corner. Below must be one's monogram. – San Francisco Call, December, 1901

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia