Slimmed Down Royal Etiquette…

It would go along with a slimmed down Monarchy, when in 1998 the Queen mulled fewer perks and fewer bows for fewer royal highnesses…

As for curtsying and bowing, the Queen is believed to be much more relaxed about etiquette than her sister, Princess Margaret. Even Margaret’s close friends must usually call her Ma’am, and have said that any companion who crosses the line of familiarity risks an icy stare.

LONDON — No more free plane trips and limousine rides for minor royals. No need—phew —to bow or curtsey every time a Prince or Princess appears. And fewer Royal Highnesses all around. Queen Elizabeth II is reportedly considering these and other changes as the royal family tries to become a modern Monarchy — one that will survive far into the future. 

The Sun newspaper, trumpeting the dawn of the people’s Monarchy, reported Saturday that the Queen was considering reducing the number of Royal Highnesses to the Monarch's immediate family. She is also reportedly thinking about barring minor royals from using royal planes and cars and of phasing out cheap “grace and favor” housing for relatives. 

The Sun also said the Queen had decreed an end to curtsying and bowing, although this has been royal policy for some time. “These reforms are very much a further indication that the Queen is taking seriously what she said just before Diana’s funeral ... being in touch, moving with the times,” said Ben Pimlott, author of a biography of the Queen and a professor of politics and contemporary history at the University of London. 

According to The Sun, the title HRH — “His or Her Royal Highness” — would be limited to the Monarch’s immediate family and children of the heir. That means Prince Charles’ two sons would keep the title, but the two daughters of Prince Andrew and the former Sarah Ferguson would not. Princess Diana and Sarah, the Duchess of York, both were stripped of the “Royal Highness” honor when they were divorced. 

Minor royals who could lose car and plane privileges include Andrew’s daughters and the Queen's first cousins, such as Prince Michael of Kent. The Sun said the proposals were outlined in a palace document seen and approved by Prime Minister Tony Blair’s office. Blair’s office said that any such changes were entirely a matter for the Queen and would not need the government’s approval. 

A spokeswoman at Buckingham Palace, speaking on condition of anonymity, indicated that no decisions had been made. “Of course, there have been a number of issues under discussion, but nothing is confirmed,” she said. Britain’s corps of royal watchers gave the move their blessings. 

“It shows the Queen is responsive to public opinion”, said Lord St. John of Fawsley, an expert on the Monarchy and constitution. “It is a big step forward and absolutely necessary,” said Harold Brooks-Baker of Burke’s Peerage, a guide to British aristocracy. “It will be a leaner and meaner royal family in leaner and meaner times,” said David Starkey, a history lecturer at the London School of Economics. 

A Labor Party lawmaker, Alan Williams, was a lonely voice of dissent. “Frankly, curtsying and the use of titles is all tinkering at the edges,” he said. “I’m glad they're doing it but at the end of the day, they seem to be doing anything but address the problem that the public are fed up with the outrageous wastefulness of the wider royal family and the royal household. If they dont address that, they are going to keep facing criticism.” 

The queen has already taken more dramatic steps to allay her critics. In 1992, the traumatic year that Charles and Diana separated and fire damaged Windsor Castle, she announced that she would start paying taxes. To fund repairs to the castle, she opened Buckingham Palace to paying tourists for the first time. 

As for curtsying and bowing, the Queen is believed to be much more relaxed about etiquette than her sister, Princess Margaret. Even Margaret’s close friends must usually call her Ma’am, and have said that any companion who crosses the line of familiarity risks an icy stare. Some newspapers made a fuss when Spice Girl Geri Halliwell failed to curtsy to the Queen at a concert in December. A month earlier, the Prime Minister’s wife, Cherie Blair, ruffled traditionalists by turning up at Balmoral Castle in pants, and reportedly failed to dip the knee. Buckingham Palace said that was “media-generated nonsense.” 

“There is no sort of etiquette or rules of protocol on how to dress or how to behave with members of the royal family except to be yourself, and hopefully to be polite”, palace spokeswoman Penny Russell-Smith said, in response to the stories about Mrs. Blair. Pimlott said some royal courtiers would be happy to do less bowing. He told BBC radio that one palace functionary confided that he had physical difficulty bowing to the Duchess of York. “There was an element of absurdity about the situation.” — By Robert Barr, Associated Press Writer, March 8, 1998

🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber of The RSVP Institute of Etiquette, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Royal Protocol and Show of Support

A photograph taken of Princess Margaret on the grounds of Kensington Palace, by Antony Armstrong-Jones — Though he would go on to become a renowned photographer whose pictures were seen by millions all over the world, it wasn't his art that made Antony Armstrong-Jones famous, according to Town and Country Magazine. “That honor, instead, goes to his first wife, Princess Margaret, who in marrying Armstrong-Jones became the first British royal to wed a non-aristocrat in 400 years. Between their headline-grabbing marriage, shocking divorce, and the salacious rumors that continued to swirl around his relationships for the rest of Armstrong-Jones's life, he continues to be one of the most controversial royal figures of the modern age.” 

On Eve of Wedding,

the Queen and Crowd Rebuff Critics of ‘Meg’s Tony’

LONDON (UPI) Queen Elizabeth today ordered that the divorced parents of Antony Armstrong -Jones be seated among royalty at Tony’s wedding Friday to Princess Margaret a rebuff to critics of the marriage. Another score for the young couple was chalked up Wednesday night when 50,000 persons massed before Buckingham Palace in a tumultuous demonstration of affection for the Princess. She was attending a pre-wedding dinner and ball given for her and Armstrong-Jones by the Queen. 

Queen’s Decision

The Queen’s decision on Armstrong-Jones’ parents came as Tony and Margaret went to Westminister Abbey today for a final dress rehearsal of the wedding. A large force of extra police was assigned to guard the abbey while Margaret, Tony, the Queen, the Queen Mother, the Duke of Edinburgh who is giving the bride away. Dr. Roger Gillian, the best man, and Queen Ingrid of Denmark went through the rehearsal. Scotland Yard tightened its arrangements to control the crowd that will jam the wedding procession route to Westminster Abbey Friday morning. Wednesday night some 50,000 broke through police lines to mob the automobile carrying the Princess and her fiancé to Buckingham Palace. 

Absolute Capacity 

Police now estimate that more than 500,000 people, absolute capacity, will pack the three-quarters of a mile from Clarence House and Buckingham Palace to the abbey when Queen Elizabeth and her procession and Princess Margaret in her glass coach travel, along flower-decorated streets to the wedding. Despite a relentless campaign of innuendo, almost since the engagement was announced 10 weeks ago, the crowds that cheered the Princess and her fiancé Wednesday night, were the biggest to gather around Buckingham Palace since the coronation, seven years ago. 

Vote of Confidence 

They cheered wildly a vote of confidence in her choice that brought smiles back to the lips of the little Princess who has been saddened by the insidious gossiping about her choice of husband. Armstrong-Jones, guest of honor for the first time at a royal function, a pre-wedding ball in the white and gold ballroom of Buckingham Palace, seemed overwhelmed and overjoyed by the reception. Queen Mother Elizabeth, who rode home with them, smiled benignly at the couple, as if to say, “I told you so.”— May 5, 1960

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Etiquette for Meeting Princess Margaret

Princess Margaret must not be photographed while eating, drinking, or smoking or with skirts at an unflattering angle. Unfortunately, none of the national publications is about to use pictures chosen from a pool. But beyond that, the ball promises to be a magnificent affair. — Princess Margaret looks at a black cat miniature, emblem of the San Francisco Press Club, after being presented with it by Robert Nicholas, club past president. Peeking from behind is her husband, Lord Snowdon.

Taking Lessons from the English

Mrs. Wilson E. Haas and her husband are poring over two closely typewritten pages that tell them exactly how to behave when they meet Her Royal Highness Princess Margaret and Lord Snowden next Monday evening at the WAIF Ball. Only . . . their chances of meeting the royal couple are distinctly dim, both because there are going to be at least 1,500 people crowded into the Hollywood Palladium for the dinner dance, and because the schedule of protocol states with typically British blandness that “no one will be introduced to Her Royal Highness and Lord Snowden.” 

It does say that later, the distinguished pair may care to walk among the guests and, perhaps, meet a few. Should this occur, the male introducee will bow his head, and address Her Royal Highness as “Your Royal Highness” or “Ma’am,” (if he feels more chummy), and her consort as “Sir.” His female counterpart (and she; SHOULD be wearing long white gloves) will curtsey if she’s either a British subject, a member of WAIF, or thinks this kind of thing is important. Otherwise she, too, will bow her head gracefully and murmur magic titles. Under no circumstances will they speak unless spoken to. 

As for autographs . . . FOR GET IT! The Hasses and other members of WAIF, along with their guests, were all sent copies of the protocol rules for the $lOO a couple benefit certainly is bound to be a high point of the autumn social season in Los Angeles. One of the most heartbreaking (to WAIF) behind- the-scenes is the matter of photography. Life Magazine had planned to cover the ball; so had Harper’s Bazaar and Holiday, among others. But the word went out — No photographers will be allowed, except the two chosen by the royal party, for Princess Margaret must not be photographed while eating, drinking, or smoking or with skirts at an unflattering angle. Unfortunately, none of the national publications is about to use pictures chosen from a pool. But beyond that, the ball promises to be a magnificent affair. 

Cocktails and dancing to Freddy Martin’s orchestra will open the program; by 8:15 all the guests must be seated so that Princess Margaret and Lord Snowden may make their entrance as the guests rise again. The national anthems of both Britain and America will then be played. Dinner will be marked by an all British fashion parade, followed by a stage show starring, among others, Bob Hope, Polly Bergen, and Frank Sinatra. Then the dancing will begin again, this time led off by Princess Margaret and her husband. Guests are asked to join them immediately so that their dance does not become an “exhibition.” Setting the mood of the distinguished party is the last sentence in the protocol instructions which says that the affair must be steeped in the “beauty and dignity befitting our honored guests.” — By Lee Christopher, for the Desert Sun, 1965

🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber of The RSVP Institute of Etiquette, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Etiquette of White After Labor Day

Tres chic? Or Tres yuck? Coco Chanel's suit is very chic, however the cigarette hanging out of her mouth... words fail us at Etiquipedia.  French fashion designer Coco Chanel in one of her signature white suits that she wore year 'round.

Just Why Can't We Wear White After Labor Day? 

The post–Labor Day moratorium on white clothing and accessories has long ranked among etiquette hard-liners' most sacred rules. As punishment for breaking it in the 1994 movie Serial Mom, for instance, Patty Hearst's character was murdered by a punctilious psychopath. But ask your average etiquette expert how that rule came to be, and chances are that even she couldn't explain it. So why aren't we supposed to wear white after Labor Day?

Mary, Queen of Scots in white mourning attire. The entire rhythm of dress etiquette and conventions could be disturbed by deaths, which did not bother to obey the dictates of any calendar or seasons. The color of deepest mourning among medieval European queens was white. This royal tradition survived in Spain until the end of the 15th century. It was revived by the Spanish-born Queen Fabiola for the funeral of her husband, King Baudouin I of Belgium, in 1993. And in 2004, the four daughters of Queen Juliana of the Netherlands all wore white to mourn their mother's death at her funeral. 

One common explanation is practical. For centuries, wearing white in the summer was simply a way to stay cool — like changing your dinner menu or putting slipcovers on the furniture. "Not only was there no air-conditioning, but people did not go around in T shirts and halter tops. They wore what we would now consider fairly formal clothes," said Judith Martin, better known as etiquette columnist Miss Manners. "And white is of a lighter weight."

But beating the heat became fashionable in the early to mid-20th century, according to Charlie Scheips, author of American Fashion. "All the magazines and tastemakers were centered in big cities, usually in northern climates that had seasons," he notes. In the hot summer months, white clothing kept New York fashion editors cool. But facing, say, heavy fall rain, they might not have been inclined to risk sullying white ensembles with mud — and that sensibility was reflected in the glossy pages of Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, which set the tone for the country.

White is the customary color for mourning in many religions and cultures, like Hinduism and Buddhism. This photo from 1914, shows Gandhi wearing white, to mourn the deaths of Indian strikers killed in police firing.

This is all sound logic, to be sure — but that's exactly why it may be wrong. "Very rarely is there actually a functional reason for a fashion rule," noted Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. True enough: it's hard to think of a workaday downside to pairing your black shoes with a brown belt.

Instead, other historians speculate, the origin of the no-white-after–Labor Day rule may be symbolic. In the early 20th century, white was the uniform of choice for Americans well-to-do enough to decamp from their city digs to warmer climes for months at a time: light summer clothing provided a pleasing contrast to drabber urban life. "If you look at any photograph of any city in America in the 1930s, you'll see people in dark clothes," says Scheips, many scurrying to their jobs. By contrast, he adds, the white linen suits and Panama hats at snooty resorts were "a look of leisure."

"And every day of his life he put on a clean shirt and a full suit from head to toe made out of linen so white it hurt your eyes to look at it."— from Huckleberry Finn about the aristocratic Colonel Grangerford. Although written by Mark Twain in 1880, it would be another 26 years for Twain to adopt the white linen suit look himself. By the 1930s, it was the must have outfit for men of leisure, who could leave the winter's cold and pop down to Palm Beach for warmer weather. Whites during the Autumn and Winter months were for the wealthy, leisure class.

Labor Day, celebrated in the U.S. on the first Monday of September, marked the traditional end of summer; the well-heeled vacationers would stow their summer duds and dust off their heavier, darker-colored fall clothing. "There used to be a much clearer sense of re-entry," says Steele. "You're back in the city, back at school, back doing whatever you're doing in the fall — and so you have a new wardrobe."

By the 1950s, as the middle class expanded, the custom had calcified into a hard-and-fast rule. Along with a slew of commands about salad plates and fish forks, the no-whites dictum provided old-money élites with a bulwark against the upwardly mobile. But such mores were propagated by aspirants too: those savvy enough to learn all the rules increased their odds of earning a ticket into polite society. "It [was] insiders trying to keep other people out," says Steele, "and outsiders trying to climb in by proving they know the rules."

Some etiquette buffs don't buy this explanation, however. "There are always people who want to attribute everything in etiquette to snobbery," protests Martin. "There were many little rules that people did dream up in order to annoy those from whom they wished to disassociate themselves. But I do not believe this is one of them."

Light colors, like white, were more suited to warm weather and those who had a lot of money to pay to keep the clothing clean. More people in the Midwest and Northern U.S. simply follow the "no white after Labor Day" rule, due to the practicality of keeping clothing clean from rain and mud, etc... Even the late Princess Margaret, upon a visit to Texas in the mid-1980s, made the evening news for wearing white shoes at the wrong time of year. Buckingham Palace quickly issued a press release, stating that Princess Margaret had done no wrong, as there are no such fashion rules in Great Britain that regulate when to wear white.

Whatever its origin, the Labor Day rule has perennially met with resistance from high-fashion quarters. As far back as the 1920s, Coco Chanel made white a year-round staple. "It was a permanent part of her wardrobe," says Bronwyn Cosgrave, author of The Complete History of Costume & Fashion: From Ancient Egypt to the Present Day.  The trend is embraced with equal vigor by many of today's fashion élites. Cosgrave notes that Marion Cotillard accepted her 2008 Academy Award in a mermaid-inspired cream dress. Fashion rules are meant to be broken by those who can pull it off, notes Cosgrave, and white "looks really fresh when people aren't expecting it."

Much to the chagrin of sartorial purists, that skepticism of the Labor Day law has seeped into mainstream America. From 1960s counterculture to the present day — when would-be fashionistas get as many ideas from blogs and friends as from magazines and Fashion Week — more people than ever are breaking the rule. Even Emily Post's Etiquette, 17th Edition, gave the go-ahead for wearing white after Labor Day. Which may explain why some who abide by the custom themselves are now willing to compromise. 

Scheips, for one, "would never be caught dead wearing a white suit after Labor Day." But neither does he completely write off those who do. "I'm sure the Queen of England at Christmastime puts on white ermine once in a while. So if it's good enough for her, it's good enough for everybody else, right?" he says. "You don't have to be a fascist about it."

Much of this article is from TIME Magazine, September 2009

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia