Gilded Age Lemon Parties

Of course, everyone who received one of these mysterious summonses was consumed by curiosity. What could “Please bring a lemon” mean? The only way to ascertain seemed to be to comply with the invitation. The Washington Market seemed glutted with the meanest little dried-up lemons ever seen. Tuesday at seven p. m., with the lemons in their hands, the guests presented themselves at Mrs. Jones’ hospitable home. 

JOLLY LEMON PARTIES

The Latest Fad In Washington Social Entertainments

It soems as if the poor little lemon had arrived at the height of its usefulness when made to do duty, with the adjunct of ten cents’ worth of citric acid, for a barrel of church lemonade, but now the “Progressive Lemon Party” is brought to the front, and here it plays a part unassisted by any chemical compounds of itself. A prominent Washington lady issued invitations last week which read: 

Mrs. Jones. At home, Tuesday, 7 p.m., 

Please bring a lemon.

Of course, everyone who received one of these mysterious summonses was consumed by curiosity. What could “Please bring a lemon” mean? The only way to ascertain seemed to be to comply with the invitation. The Washington Market seemed glutted with the meanest little dried-up lemons ever seen. Tuesday at seven p. m., with the lemons in their hands, the guests presented themselves at Mrs. Jones’ hospitable home. 

They were shown in to a charming little cloak room, with yellow decorations. and after removing wraps were greeted by the hostess, who was resplendent in a black lace over a lem-on-colored satin, and carried in her hand an immense bunch of yellow roses. After greeting each guest, the hostess asked her to “take her lemon to the dining-room and register.” 

The dining-room was a blaze of golden light from tiny fairy lamps with yellow shades. The dining table had lemon-colored silk napery, which was relieved by a fiat centerpiece of delicate ferns and Catherine Mermet roses. At a side table sat a lady and gentleman, who, all were informed, composed the “Squeezing Committee.” This committee took the name on a register, and tied a ribbon, marked in such a way as to be distinguishable, on each lemon. After the arrival of all the guests and the marking of all the lemons, they were invited to again assemble in the dining-room while the “Squeezing Committee” counted the seeds.” 

Each lemon was cut in half, the seeds extracted, and after being counted and duly accredited to the owner on the register, they were placed in a beautiful transparent glass bowl. The lemon was taken by the “Squeezing Committee” and “squoze” into an immense punch-bowl. The guests were then invited to a repast of strictly lemon-made edibles —lemon ice, lemon ice-cream, lemon cake, lemon jelly, sardines and lemon, lemon-cream pie, and every conceivable sort of lemon-flavored food. Placed beside each plate was a bunch of yellow roses, tied with a satin bow of the same shade. 

After partaking of this unique repast, the glass bowl containing the seeds was placed on the table and a prize offered to her who should guess the number of seeds therein, and a “booby prize” to him who should hazard the least accurate guess. After numerous methods both fair and foul, had been resorted to, and each “guess” had been duly registered, the seeds were counted and the prizes awarded. 

The winner of the grand prize, coming within three of the correct number, received an exquisite lemon-colored glass lemonade bowl, while the “booby” was made happy with a wooden lemon-squeezer. A prize was then awarded to her whose lemon contained the most seeds, and another to her who had the fewest. Meanwhile, skillful hands had prepared a punch in the large bowl into which the lemons were squeezed.— Washington Letter, 1889

🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Etiquette of the Patriarch Ball

This is in itself not original with the “Four Hundred” —vulgar term!—but was copied from the St. Cecilia, the most exclusive affair of the kind in aristocratic Charleston, where it has existed since the days of the Revolution.

In every city there is an assembly or dancing organization on the lines of the Patriarchs and Matriarchs in New York. This is in itself not original with the “Four Hundred” —vulgar term!—but was copied from the St. Cecilia, the most exclusive affair of the kind in aristocratic Charleston, where it has existed since the days of the Revolution. 

The assemblies proper in New York are called the Matriarchs. The arrangements are in the hands of a number of fashionable women instead of men. The plan of all these organizations is practically the same. In order to make matters easy and to pilot my reader through the intricacies of a fashionable ball, I will suppose that he is a stranger in New York, with some smart friends, and that he is going either to the Patriarchs’ or to the Assembly. The rules laid down will hold good for other cities. 

Your first intimation may be while visiting at the house of one of the patrons or patronesses, when your hostess or host may ask you if you would like to go to the Assembly or the Patriarchs’. If you have no other engagement for that evening—and I think it would be policy for you to make others subservient to this—you should reply that you would be delighted to do so. Your host or hostess will then say that he or she will send you a ticket. This may be one way, or you may receive a note asking if you are free for that particular date, whether “would you like to go to the Assembly?” etc., or again, you might simply receive a note with a ticket. 

In any one of these cases, just as soon as you receive the ticket you must answer your correspondent immediately, accepting, or, if you can not go, regretting and returning it. You must remember that all tickets are personal and each Patriarch or each patroness has only a certain number. — From The Complete Bachelor, Manners for Men, 1896

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Gilded Age Champagne Etiquette

“What!” said he, “drink a champagne of 1880. Why, it is too absurd!” I told him it was that or nothing, for we were far behind them in England, drinking new champagnes and having no old ones. The idea is prevalent that champagne will not keep in this climate. After a few years, one will always order his supply from abroad yearly, keeping his champagne at his London wine merchant’s or at the vineyard.

Brut Champagne – Another Revolution in treatment of this Wine – It must be Old to be good –‘74 Champagne worth $8 a bottle in Paris– How to frappé Champagne

THE fashionable world here have accepted the Brût champagne, and avoid all other kinds; ladies even more than men. But another revolution is to occur in this country in the next five years in the treat ment of this wine. We will soon follow the example of our English brethren and never drink it until it is from eight to ten years old.

A year or two ago one the most fashionable men in London asked me to assist him in ordering a dinner at Delmonico's. When we came to ordering the wines, he exclaimed against the champagne. “What!” said he, “drink a champagne of 1880. Why, it is too absurd!” I told him it was that or nothing, for we were far behind them in England, drinking new champagnes and having no old ones.

The idea is prevalent that champagne will not keep in this climate. After a few years, one will always order his supply from abroad yearly, keeping his champagne at his London wine merchant’s or at the vineyard. To evidence the improvement in champagne by age, I can only cite that the champagne of 1874 has sold in London at auction for $7 a bottle, and now in Paris and London you pay $8 a bottle for a '74 wine at a restaurant, and $6 for an 1880 wine; at the vineyard itself $45 a dozen, and hard to obtain at this price. If you once drink one of these old champagnes you will never again drink a fresh wine. In England, they now drink no Madeira; it is never served. At their dinners they pride themselves on giving 1874 champagne. If they can give this wine, with a Golden Sherry and a fine glass of Port, they are satisfied.

It will be well to remember that champagnes are now known to connoisseurs by their vintage. Wines of some vintages do not keep at all. In keeping champagnes, keep only, or order kept for you, the champagnes of the best vintages. Of course, there is much risk in keeping any champagne; but what all strive for, is to possess something that no one else has; that is not purchasable, I mean, in any quantity, and this now is 1874 champagne.

To properly frappé champagne, put in the pail small pieces of ice, then a layer of rock salt, alternating these layers until the tub is full. Put the bottle in the tub; be careful to keep the neck of the bottle free from the ice, for the quantity of wine in the neck of the bottle being small, it would be acted upon by the ice first. If possible, turn the bottle every five minutes. In twenty-five minutes from the time it is put in the tub, it should be in perfect condition, and should be served immediately. What I mean by perfect condition is, that when the wine is poured from the bottle, it should contain little flakes of ice; that is a real frappé. — From “Society As I Have Found It” by Ward McAllister

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

“Society As I Have Found It”- A Review

It is not that his book is given up to trivialities, but that his solemn way of dealing with them creates the impression that he imagines himself occupied in a kind of philosophical research. Darwin, in his evolution of his evolution theory, was not more impressed with the magnitude of his theme than Ward McAllister in establishing a rule of etiquette.

Oh! That Mine Enemy, Etc...

The enemies of Mr. Ward McAllister are indebted to that gentleman for a means of retaliation. Mr. McAllister’s book on “Society As I Have Found It” exposes him to merciless criticism. As a conductor of entertainments he was above reproach. He had studied one thing until he knew it well. No man in either hemisphere is more competent authority on such important matters as the month in the year in which salmon may be served at a swell dinner or the kind of sauce which may be served with it, he has given many, years’ study to intricate problems of this nature, and if he has not solved them satisfactorily, the man does not live who can prove that he has not. But a clever man with Mr. McAllister’s knowledge of society, in both Europe and America, ought to write an entertaining book. That is precisely what Mr. McAllister has failed to do. 

It is not that his book is given up to trivialities, but that his solemn way of dealing with them creates the impression that he imagines himself occupied in a kind of philosophical research. Darwin, in his evolution of his evolution theory, was not more impressed with the magnitude of his theme than Ward McAllister in establishing a rule of etiquette. In most pursuits, earnestness is an element of success. A writer impresses a public in proportion, as he is able to convince them that he believes his own theories and regards them as important. But with society as a theme, a man may be wise or witty, satirical or indulgent, a scoffer or a worshiper, but he must be bright. McAllister’s book is both trivial and dull. — San Francisco Call, 1890

Etiquette. Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia