Gilded Age Potatoes and Champagne

Above is a Hope pattern Saratoga Chip server, with a gilded, pierced bowl, by Mount Vernon Silver, circa 1899 — In Saratoga Springs, New York, legend has it that in 1853, a wealthy, but grumpy patron entered Moon’s Lake House, a restaurant on the shores of Saratoga Lake. The patron ordered Moon’s Fried Potatoes. These were a well-known house specialty. Fried potatoes were commonly served then in the French manner, which were thick-cut slices. The patron found them too thick and soggy for his tastes, though. Sending them back to the kitchen, he requested that they be thinner. He was served a second portion, but still not satisfied; he returned them a second time, insisting they be even thinner. The annoyed cook, a Mr. George Crum, wanted to teach the patron a lesson, so he sliced potatoes as paper thin as he could and over-salted them, thinking they’d then be inedible. When deep fried, these became crispy and impossible to eat with one’s fork. The surprising reaction from the diner was one of enthusiasm and an unexpected request for a second serving of chips. Soon other diners requested “Crum’s Saratoga Chips” beginning the illustrious history of “Saratoga Chips”, a Moon’s Lake House specialty.

A Gilded Age Fashion at Saratoga?

Potatoes and Champagne

At Saratoga, they have the funniest custom of eating potatoes with champagne. In fact, the Spa might be called the “Kingdom of Potatoes.” Everybody eats them, and not only at regular meal hours, but wherever two or three people are gathered together to have a good time, the potato flaunts itself before the palate of the party. 

At Moon’s, on the lake, when a bottle of champagne or pitcher of mint julep or claret cup is ordered, a plate, or several of them, heaped with crisp Saratoga chips, is brought on. Chips go even with a glass of lemonade. At the club house at the race track, the same peculiar custom prevails. It is the only summer resort where the potato has full sway. Out at Oarsman Jim Reilly’s hostlery, his hashed cream potatoes are famous, and anyone who doesn’t like potatoes has to eat them or be out of fashion at Saratoga.— Mercury News, 1894

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia