The history of vodka on the Russian table is complex and confusing and causes a lot of controversy among researchers. The purpose of this article is not to cover this point in detail, but I would still like to mention a couple of nuances, this is important for reading and understanding classical literature, including Russian literature. It is believed that the concept of "Russian vodka" can be discussed starting from the 16th century.
For example, the famous researcher of the history of Russian cuisine, Pokhlebkin, cites quite a few foreign authors in his book mentioning this term. But, as other researchers note, the respected author does this based on Russian translations of the 19th century. In the originals, vodka is often not mentioned. Here, for example, is "Notes on Muscovy" by Sigismund Herberstein: “On fish days, they brought me butchered fish and many large sturgeons smoked in the air without salt; also a decanter of vodka, which they always drink at the table before dinner.” In the original it was not vodka, but pranndt wein – “house wine.”
Or another quote: “Finally the stewards came out for food and brought vodka, which they always drink at the beginning of dinner...” Here in the original, instead of vodka, aqua vitae is mentioned, that is, not necessarily vodka, but a strong alcoholic beverage. That is, the term “vodka” has been encountered since the 16th century, but it means something slightly different than what “vodka” refers to today.
This image is a painting titled Русский завтрак, this translates to “Russian breakfast”
Boris Rodionov, a researcher of the history of Russian vodka, interprets the historical evolution of the term “vodka” as follows:
- Sixteenth century - medicinal tinctures on hot (bread) wine.
- Seventeenth to Nineteenth centuries - bread wine, infused with spices, or simply additionally distilled in special vodka stills (plain vodka).
- Since the 1860s - a general term for all strong alcoholic beverages.
- Since 1936 - a mixture rectified alcohol with water.
However, such an important drink for Russians as vodka, of course, has a birthday - January 31. It was on this day in 1865 that Dmitry Mendeleyev defended his famous dissertation “On the combination of alcohol with water.” To be fair, it was not really about vodka, but somehow it became customary to believe that it was Mendeleyev and on this day who created the ideal vodka. In principle, this is good - one more holiday!
In fact, it is obvious that this was invented a long time ago and was actively improved by the method of numerous and centuries-long tastings, much, much earlier. The strength of 40 degrees familiar today was approved only in 1886 in the “Charter on drinking fees,” before that it “spun” around 38 degrees and even lower. By the way, the names were different, including in the state acts of that time and in the trade records in the Russian Empire vodka was called “simple alcoholic table wine.” Thus, it is important to understand that when we encounter the concepts of “vodka” and “wine” in classical literature, especially regarding Russia, it may not mean what we think now. Vodka was once called “wine” and vice versa.
Serving vodka and the place of the glass in the table setting from the point of view of etiquette, however, is not an easy task. In most countries, vodka is a component of cocktails, so the most “pure” that can be achieved, if we are talking about most countries where vodka is not a national drink, is for it to be served in a decanter, and a huge amount of ice will certainly be brought.
In fact, it will still turn out to be a cocktail - vodka with ice, which is exactly what the beautiful actress Charlize Theron likes, as I have read. Naturally, they do not drink it in one gulp, it is a long drink. In general, not the Russian option. According to the Russian rule, vodka is usually drunk in one gulp, “in one gulp” without any ice, it must be cold. So the difficulty of serving it is, first of all, that it must be very, very cold. As I understand it, placing it in ice, like is done say with champagne, is not enough.
In the understanding of many in Russia today, vodka is, let's say, an inexpensive and not very sophisticated drink. For example, for Americans, vodka is something bohemian, cheerful. And quite sophisticated, by the way. No wonder Woody Allen advertised it. On the sad side, Amy Whitehouse did not drink whiskey or gin on her last day. To this day, as I read, vodka is brought to her grave.
Let me remind you separately that it is better to pour it into a decanter or a shtof. A separate feature of the Russian feast is that, as a rule, there is no direct connection between the dishes and drinks served. This is treated much more simply. In addition, as a rule, a Russian chooses one drink for the whole evening, it can be either white or red wine, or vodka. If we joke, we can say that in Russia, any food cannot spoil vodka. Therefore, in this case, for someone this may be the only glass needed for the whole feast.
A stopka shown next to a rumka. Rumkas on a table is more formal than the shot-glass-like stopka.
It is interesting that earlier, before the revolution, it was believed that women, at least from the public, did not drink vodka and vodka glasses were not served for them. Ladies were served tiny liqueur glasses with a capacity of 25-30 ml at the final stage of dinners and receptions - for dessert, this was considered acceptable. However, in the 20th century, before restrictions on alcohol advertising, it was often beautiful women who were chosen to promote and popularize the drink. In general, the topic of "women and vodka" in Russia is very often, in my opinion, associated with age and generation. Older ladies drink vodka more often than younger ones, who now prefer lighter drinks, such as wine.
That is why it can be difficult to determine the place of “rumka” or “stopka” in table setting, because the rule that glasses are placed and removed as they are used has not been cancelled. And as I said, it can be difficult to determine this happy moment in a Russian feast, because people drink the same drinks, including vodka, throughout the entire dinner. It turns out that if you cannot agree with yourself that today vodka is an aperitif, “with a snack.” “with a hot dish,” digestif, “with everything,” “instead of everything” - it is very difficult to derive a single rule for serving. Therefore, when serving, a glass is often not placed at all, but brought “on demand.” At the same time, I will separately note that asking for something that the hosts do not offer is not socially acceptable as being polite.
But still, if the glasses are placed in a row or in a triangle when serving, then the vodka glass will be placed on the right next to the knives of the first and closest to the guest, because the feast begins with appetizers or zakuski. In Russia, the concepts of “vodka and zakuski” are practically intertwined and it is customary to classify vodka as an appetizer, although, as I said, it can be served with soup and further down the menu.
It turns out that at official events at the state level, vodka is often not offered at all, despite the fact that this drink is, indeed, a national one. Vodka is not very suitable for modern European cuisine. And traditional Russian cuisine is not particularly promoted at receptions, or it is done selectively. I will separately note that in Russia it is quite acceptable, even at the highest level, to finish a toast with vodka.
Meanwhile, vodka served as a royal and diplomatic gift in its time. Thus, Catherine II gave vodka to Frederick the Great, the Swedish King Gustav III and even ... Voltaire and Carl Linnaeus. Later, the great botanist wrote a study: “Vodka in the hands of a philosopher, a doctor and a commoner.” I would also like to add a few words about the wonderful Russian expression - “drink vodka by the bucketful.” This is said about people who drink a lot.
Interestingly, this was said not about alcoholics at all, but about absolutely everyone. There was simply no other option until 1885; vodka was sold only in 12.3-liter buckets. And since bottles appeared in 0.6-liter volumes, another interesting rule follows from this. The classic “correct” box of vodka holds 20 bottles. Absolutely right, precisely because in total this will make up... a bucket.
Our newest contributor, Kseniia Markova, is a specialist in European social etiquette. Project creator and author for ETIQUETTE748, Kseniia won a national award in the field of protocol, image and etiquette, “For contributions to the development and popularization of the profession” for quality content that supports the ETIQUETTE748 project - 2018; National Award in the field of protocol and etiquette, winner in the category “Best educational project in the field of etiquette” -2022. She is a holder of diplomas and certificates from leading schools and teachers in Europe. (including: Institut Villa Pierrefeu, Debrett’s Academy, The Minding Manners etc... She is the author of several books, including, “European Etiquette: Conversations about good manners and subtleties of behavior in society,” and “Etiquette. Traditions and history of romantic relationships,” and “Dress code: Etiquette and classics as ways of self-expression.” In 2022, this book won an award as the best in the field of etiquette. She is a member of the National Association of Protocol Specialists (NASP)
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