Royal Dining Etiquette History

When meals began to be served à la Russe, every guest was served with the same menu. The table should have been less cluttered, but flowers, lighting, decorations and expanded place settings with new items - such as fish knives and forks - soon filled the gaps.

Traditionally… even the grandest of banquets had been laid out on the table so that the guests could help themselves. Over the course of the eighteenth century, the layout had become an art form in its own right. It necessitated at least two tablecloths, both of which were laid on the table at the beginning of the meal. The cook would have planned how the dishes were to be displayed, balancing foods of different types with their colour and form both to achieve an attractive table layout and to offer each guest a variety of dishes. 

Of course, not everything by any means would be within reach of each guest. The options were for the guest to ask for a dish to be passed or to content him or herself with the dishes to hand. At a royal dinner, inhibitions were certainly greater than in a less formal situation. yet the variety of food on one's plate depended on cultivating a rapport with one's fellow diner, otherwise the meal might be very frugal indeed.

As one course ended, the dishes were removed and replaced by those for the next course. Until about the end of George IV's reign, sweet dishes were still included in the first and second courses. Large joints of meat would be carved at a sideboard and brought to the table. After the first two courses the top tablecloth was removed and the dessert, arranged with artistry, served on the clean cloth. Sculptures in sugar and ice fitted perfectly into this mode of service, known as service à la française, and fruit was often displayed in a silver epergne or in pierced and patterned silver bowls or trays.

One can immediately see the advantages and pitfalls of such a manner of serving. In its favour, the food is seen as being plentiful and beautifully presented; in theory guests can help themselves to whatever and however much they want; and it encourages conversation among guests. But there is little room on the table for anything but food; you may very much want a dish but not have access to it; and since all the food for each course has to be served at the same time, hot dishes are likely to be eaten lukewarm.

From the mid-nineteenth century, service à la russe was gradually adopted in large establishments, including the court, and it is still in general use today. – From “At the King’s Table,” by Susanne Groom

 Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia