Dining Etiquette and Aesthetics of 1888

An epergne is an ornamental centerpiece, usually with fruits, candles and flowers. The popularity and the size of epergnes rose and fell throughout the 19th century. In 1888, their popularity was evidently waning. Nearly sixty years later, the more ornate styles were making a comeback, as shown below from 1947.— “Flowering epergnes have been retired, and there is a marked inclination to place the graceful branch of candlesticks on the buffet or sideboard.” 

Found in the “Ladies Column”

Anything on a dining table that obstructs the view of one’s vis-a-vis is considered very bad form. Flowering epergnes have been retired, and there is a marked inclination to place the graceful branch of candlesticks on the buffet or sideboard. —Chicago Times, 1888

Epergnes made their way to America during the 18th century through craftsmen such as the Reveres and via objects imported from England. This dovetailed with a change in serving styles in America at the end of the century. During the Colonial Era the serving style was “everything on the table”, which left little to no space for an elaborate centerpiece. After the Revolution Americans moved to service à la Russe, where dishes of food were banished from the table — diners were brought hot dishes directly from the kitchen by servants. An alternative could be service from sideboards, which appeared in American dining rooms in the 1790s. This left room on the table for centerpieces and even grander arrangements known as Plateaus. We know that many of America's founding fathers entertained using these Plateaus, essentially pyramidal arrangements of serving vessels festooned with garlands of foliage and flowers, culminating in an elaborately decked-out Epergne at the center. -From The Henry Ford. org

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