Tokaji Eszencia can be left for approx. 200 years. It has been described by Louis XIV described Royal Tokay as “the wine of Kings, King of wines.” From Empresses, Tsars, Queens, and Kings to composers, writers and notables, they all describe Tokaji a drink to be cherished and to be known the world over.
“Tokay is a sweet wine that was highly thought of by the Victorians. It is produced near the Carpathian Mountains of northeastern Hungary.
Tokay can range from dry to sweet, but the best known, although not the most common, form of Tokay is Aszu. In fact, the term “Tokay” is widely used to mean “Aszu Tokay.”
Aszu Tokay is a wonderful sweet dessert wine with high alcohol content. Even in Victorian times it was a bit hard to acquire as the Austrian Emperors, the Tsars, and the Popes acquired most of it.
Aszu Tokay has its own legendary beginnings. In 1650, the area's wine producers, fearing an attack by the Turks, who ruled most of Hungary at that time, delayed the harvest. This delay allowed the “noble rot” to begin to grow on the grapes.
Tokay was a great favorite of the Sun King, Louis XIV, and Peter the Great. Peter used to have armed soldiers guard his yearly shipment of the wine to Russia. It was possible to ship Aszu Tokay far from its point of origin, even over bad roads, because its high alcohol and sugar content made it more stable than regular wine.
As a Princely gesture, the Austrian Emperor, Franz Joseph, began sending Queen Victoria, Aszu Tokay wine on her birthday — a dozen bottles for each year of her age. Unfortunately for him, it turned out that both he and Queen Victoria were among the longest reigning rulers in the history of Europe — so year after year, more and more bottles of this rare wine went to London. By the year 1900, the total was up to 972 bottles.
Following the Communist takeover of Hungary, the quality of Tokay is said to have gone down as the collective mentality was not conducive to producing great wines. However, with the fall of the Iron Curtain, the situation is changing, and the expertise and investment is flowing into Hungary and improving the product. Perhaps to distinguish the post-Communist product, the wine today is called “Tokaji” — its original spelling. Under either name, Westerners can again enjoy the “Wine of Kings.”
The sweetness of the wine is graded by how many baskets of specially picked grapes with the noble rot, are added to a cask of normal wine. The more the better. The Hungarian word for basket is “puttonyos.” The bottles are labeled by how many puttonyos they have. The highest grade is 6 puttonyos wine.” — From “Forgotten Elegance,” 2001
More on Tokay
More specifics of the world famous Hungarian sweet wine.... Tokaj or Tokaj-Hegyalia is a northeastern wine region in Hungary, bordering the Slovakia grape growing area, called similarly Tokaj or Tokajský. The wine region is naturally bordered by the Bodrod and Tisza rivers and encased by the Zemplén hills. The Tokaj-Hegyalia region contains 5700 hectares of vineyards and over 25 towns and villages.
Research suggests that Aszú grapes were purposely grown and treated from 1550 onwards and sold as sweet wine. However, legend has it that Hungary was set for an Ottoman invasion between the 16 to17th century, so grapes were left there after harvesting. Once landowners came back, namely Prince György Rákó I, and went back to reclaim their family property and fields, the grapes had rotted. The Balkan tradition known as Hegyalja, may have been used to make wine from these grapes.
The grape used is the indigenous major grape varieties of Furmint and Hárslevelű grape, affected by noble rot or Botrytis cinera, a mold, known as aszú berries that concentrates the grape sugars. Minor grape varieties that can also be used are: Sárgamuskotály, Kövérszölö, Zéta, Kabar and Sárga Muskotály.
3 puttonyos – residual sugar levels 60 grams per litre
4 puttonyos – residual sugar levels 90 grams per litre
5 puttonyos – residual sugar levels 120 grams per litre
6 puttonyos – residual sugar levels 150 grams per litre
Tokay Eszencia - residual sugar levels 450 grams per litre
The rarely made Tokay Eszencia is highly concentrated sweet essence of low alcohol, famous for its restorative effects. It is made in a completely different process that sees the alcohol served in a honey-like consistency. You can today purchase a 1957 Monimpex Aszú Eszencia from 320.00 € for a 500ml bottle.
Once the Tokaji is made, it is stored for many years. The higher residual levels of Tokaji can be left in the deep, mouldy volcanic cellar for decades. These mould lined cellars stabilise the level of humidity averaging 95% all year long. The wine is put into barrels, then transferred to bottles. Some bottles will be laid vertically, however some will be stored upright. Bottles may need re-corking every few years.
Tokaji Eszencia can be left for approx. 200 years. It has been described by Louis XIV as “the wine of Kings, King of wines.” From Empresses, Tsars, Queens, and Kings, to composers, writers and notables, they all describe Tokaji as a drink to be cherished and to be known the world over.
One of the traditions of the Imperial Court of the Hapsburg, was to store barrels and bottles of Tokaji. This would be found on the dining tables of the royal family and given as gifts of goodwill to other European Monarchs.
To consume Tokaji, it is best to serve it between 11 to 14 degrees C. The warmer the wine is, it can appear to be less fresh, and cooled is best. The best pairing to this wine is Magyar Libamáj or otherwise known as Foie Gras. It can be matched with desserts that are perhaps more tart in flavour, than overly sweet.
Today many around the world apply the name tokay, that barely resembles the genuine Hungarian grape or process to make tokay. hopefully the ministry of agriculture of Hungary or Agrárminisztérium, will get closer to applying for the protection of the Tokaji name.
The grape used is the indigenous major grape varieties of Furmint and Hárslevelű grape, affected by noble rot or Botrytis cinera, a mold, known as aszú berries that concentrates the grape sugars
For many years, Etiquipedia contributor, Elizabeth Soos, has had a keen interest in cultural customs. With her European background and extensive travel, Soos developed an interest in the many forms of respect and cultural expectations in the countries she has visited. With her 20 years’ experience in customer service within private international companies based in Australia, and her lifetime interest in manners and research, she decided to branch out into the field of etiquette and deportment. Through her self-directed studies and by completing the Train-The-Trainer’s course offered by Emma Dupont’s School of Etiquette in London and by Guillaume Rue de Bernadac at Academie de Bernadac based in Paris and Shanghai, she founded Auersmont School of Etiquette.
Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia
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