Friday, March 12, 2021

How to Wear Gloves Properly

 

“During her early years as an etiquette writer, the late Emily Post advised women to put their gloves on before they stepped out of their homes. She later conceded that there were times when gloves were not necessary. Today, the rules are greatly relaxed, but gloves should be worn when going to a formal luncheon, dinner, reception or dance. They are de rigueur on the streets of large towns and cities. They should be worn to and from church.”—1962


Wardrobe Of Gloves Suggested

ALTHOUGH wildly colored or printed gloves crop up periodically in fashion, authorities on etiquette agree that they are rarely correct. The arbiters favor classic gloves in subdued shades. They wince when they are confronted with what one of them calls “weird” materials such as silver or gold lame, fancy embroidery, or costumes in which the hat, handbag, shoes and gloves are of a matching color. 

Gloves, these arbiters maintain, are part of the background. They should not be a focal point. As a result, a good glove wardrobe for street and evening wear often is organized around neutral colors — beige, gray, black, white, navy and brown.

During her early years as an etiquette writer, the late Emily Post advised women to put their gloves on before they stepped out of their homes. She later conceded that there were times when gloves were not necessary. Today, the rules are greatly relaxed, but gloves should be worn when going to a formal luncheon, dinner, reception or dance. They are de rigueur on the streets of large towns and cities. They should be worn to and from church.

Short Gloves Removed

Generally, gloves should be removed before a woman smokes, eats, drinks, puts on make-up or handles merchandise in a shop. Long, elbow-length gloves, often worn to formal dinners and dances, are treated differently. They may be left on for dancing, or unbuttoned at the wrist and the finger-ends tucked into the wrist opening, whenever a woman smokes or drinks. They should always be completely removed when a woman sits down to dinner.


Gloves are worn when a woman shakes hands, either as the hostess, or guests in the receiving line at a formal reception. It is suitable to wear bracelets over long gloves, but rings should be worn under, never over, any kind of gloves. Gloves are made in a variety of lengths. Two-button gloves are wrist length. Four-button are bracelet length. Eight-button come to the elbow. The longest gloves, worn with evening gowns, come within an inch or two of the shoulder.


Shorter lengths usually are worn with longer sleeves and vice versa. Very short gloves, which are young looking, are sometimes worn with sleeveless dresses in the summertime. Elbow-length gloves are often worn crushed, not full length, to fill the space between the hand and a longer sleeve. 

Color consultants favor gloves in a shade that is paler or darker than the clothes it with which they are to be worn. White gloves are the late-day gloves, except in some warm climates and in some cities in the summer. Black kid gloves start in the morning and go all the way through the evening. A general rule one fashion advisor advocates is polished leather gloves– kid or glacé– with tweeds, mohairs and lusterless fabrics. — The New York Times, 1962



Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Thursday, March 11, 2021

Gilded Age Cycling Attire and More

 

Maude Cooke does not approve! “Skirts, no matter how light, how trim, how heavy, are both a nuisance and a danger. A nuisance because they are always subject to entanglement in the wheel; because they fly up with every breeze and motion; because they have not the chic appearance of the properly made bloomer, and because, if they are weighted, like a riding habit, they make so much more to carry against the wind.”
Photo source, Etiquipedia photo library 



Skirts are an Abomination

A renowned lady writer says: “In the first place let me condemn the skirt—not from prejudice, but from experience. Skirts, no matter how light, how trim, how heavy, are both a nuisance and a danger. A nuisance because they are always subject to entanglement in the wheel; because they fly up with every breeze and motion; because they have not the chic appearance of the properly made bloomer, and because, if they are weighted, like a riding habit, they make so much more to carry against the wind. And breeze makes weight.

“They are a danger because with the constant pumping of the pedals the knee is required to raise too great a weight; this bears upon the body just below the back of the hips, giving backache; often more serious troubles. I wouldn't wear a skirt. I had one torn off me by the wheel; but I rode with them long enough to give a just comparison of the merits of skirts versus bloomers.

“Riding suits should be of fine, light weight, navy blue or black material, made with bloomers, and the blouse with tailor-made jacket. I wear the sweater myself in preference, because it is not so apt to leave one subject to changes of temperature. The Alpine hat of Tam O'Shanter is au fait for street, with leggings to match the bloomers and jacket, and low shoes made broad on the ball of the foot. All bicycle shoes should be broad on the ball, because the pedaling is done with the ball, not with the under curve, as so many think. Doeskin gloves are best for ordinary riding. Bloomers should be made to fasten at the left side of the back, which leaves room for a pocket on the right side. Tinted leggings should always match the hat and gloves.

“Tell the ladies to have their saddles built high and wide in the back, sloping away and downwards in front; and that if they pedal properly there is no reason why bicycling should not be a healthful, moral, modest and permanent form of exercise. For, mark it,” she added, as a parting sally, “the wheel has come to stay.”


A Pace Indicator

A man who rides for health and pleasure and not to race or score centuries says that his plan is never to go so fast that he must breathe through his mouth. As long as his nostrils can supply sufficient air he knows that he is not over-exerting himself. As soon as he feels an inclination to breathe through his mouth he slackens his pace.


Don’t Dodge a Bicycle

Before bicycling will ever become a success a meeting must be called for the purpose of allowing the wheelmen and the pedestrian to arrive at some understanding. “I am in favor of a convention or something of that sort,” said a prominent wheelman to a reporter.

As it is now, a rider comes down the street and sees ahead of him at a crossing a man or woman who is supposed to be endowed with reasonable intelligence. This person is in the act of crossing the street. He looks up, sees the rider coming and stands still right in the middle of the street. Of course, he is mentally calculating his chances for getting across safely.

In the meantime, the rider is getting closer and closer and is in a study equally as profound as to what the person is going to do. The pedestrian takes a step forward, takes another glance up the street, stops, starts back, makes an effort to reach the pavement, stops again, starts forward, stops.

Of course, by this time the cyclist is almost at a standstill and is also zigzagging from one side to the other, waiting and muttering. The pedestrian seems to give up all possibility of escape, faces the rider, both arms extended, jumps from one foot to the other, and the two collide. The cyclist is thrown to the ground, his wheel twisted, and he gets the blame.

And how easily all this can be avoided! Let the pedestrian, instead of performing all these trying evolutions, merely walk along as though there was nothing behind him, keep his course, and the cyclist will know what to do. He will turn his wheel to one side and slide past with perfect ease and safety. On the crossings let a man walk along as though there were not a bicycle in the state, and the wheelman will judge his course accordingly. He has control of his wheel and is as anxious not to collide as the other fellow. – Maud C. Cooke, 1896


Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Wednesday, March 10, 2021

Gilded Age Street Etiquette

 

In walking with a lady on the street, give her the inner side of the walk, unless the outside is the safer part, in which case she is entitled to it. Your arm should not be given to any lady except your wife or a near relative, or a very old lady, during the day, unless her comfort or safety require it. At night the arm should always be offered; also in ascending the steps of a public building. A gentleman should accommodate his walk to that of a lady, or an elderly or delicate person.




OUR conduct on the street should always be modest and dignified. Loud and boisterous conversation or laughter and all undue liveliness are improper in public, especially in a lady.

When walking on the street do not permit yourself to be so absent-minded as to fail to recognize your friends. Walk erect and with dignity, and do not go along reading a book or a newspaper.

Should you stop to speak to a friend, withdraw to the side of the walk with him, that you may not interrupt the passing of others. Should your friend have a stranger with him, apologize to the stranger for the interruption. You must never leave your friend with whom you are walking to speak to another without first asking him to excuse you.

In walking with a lady on the street, give her the inner side of the walk, unless the outside is the safer part, in which case she is entitled to it. Your arm should not be given to any lady except your wife or a near relative, or a very old lady, during the day, unless her comfort or safety require it. At night the arm should always be offered; also in ascending the steps of a public building. A gentleman should accommodate his walk to that of a lady, or an elderly or delicate person.

When a lady with whom a gentleman is walking wishes to enter a store, he should open the door, permit her to pass in first, if practicable, follow her, and close the door. He should always ring door bells or rap at a door for her. A gentleman should never pass in front of a lady, unless absolutely necessary, and should then apologize for so doing.

Should a lady ask information of a gentleman on the street, he must raise his hat, bow, and give the desired information. If unable to do so, he must bow and courteously express his regrets.

In crossing the street, a lady should gracefully raise her dress a little above her ankle with one hand. To raise the dress with both hands is vulgar, except in places where the mud is very deep.

A gentleman meeting a lady acquaintance on the street should not presume to join her in her walk without first asking her permission. It may not be agreeable to her, or convenient that her most intimate friend should join her. She has the right, after granting such permission, to excuse herself and leave the gentleman whenever she may see fit; and a gentleman will never take offense at the exercise of such a right. If it is inconvenient for a lady to accept the gentleman's company, she should frankly say so, mentioning some reason, and excusing herself with friendly courtesy. Gentlemen give place to ladies, and to gentlemen accompanying ladies, in crossing the street.

If you have anything to say to a lady whom you may happen to meet in the street, however intimate you may be, do not stop her, but turn round and walk in company; you can take leave at the end of the street.

Etiquette of the Street

When you are passing in the street, and see coming toward you a person of your acquaintance, whether a lady or an elderly person, you should offer them the wall—that is to say, the side next the houses. If a carriage should happen to stop in such a manner as to leave only a narrow passage between it and the houses, beware of elbowing and rudely crowding the passengers, with a view to get by more expeditiously. Wait your turn, and, if any of the persons before mentioned come up, you should edge up to the wall, in order to give them the place. They also, as they pass, should bow politely to you.

When two gentlemen accompany a lady in a walk, she should place herself between them, and not unduly favor either. A gentleman meeting a lady friend accompanied by another gentleman should not join her unless satisfied that his presence is agreeable to both parties.

A lady should not venture out upon the street alone after dark. By so doing she compromises her dignity, and exposes herself to indignity at the hands of the rougher class. When a lady passes the evening with a friend, she should make arrangements beforehand for some one to come for her at a stated hour. If this cannot be done, or if the escort fails to come, she should courteously ask the host to permit a servant to accompany her home. A married lady may, if circumstances render it necessary, return home alone. An unmarried lady should never do so.

Should your host offer to accompany you himself, decline his offer, politely stating that you do not wish to give him so much trouble; but should he insist upon it, accept his escort. In the case of a married lady, the husband should always come for her. He is an ill-bred fellow who refuses to render his wife such attention. A lady, upon arriving at her home, should always dismiss her escort with thanks. A gentleman should not enter the house, although invited by the lady to do so, unless for some especial reason.— Maude C. Cooke, 1896




Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Tuesday, March 9, 2021

Knifing of Food to Saucering of Drinks

 

In the region within a radius of 50 miles around Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, the knife was commonly, but not always, used by men over 50, but rarely by those under 50, or by women, among “genteel people,” up to about 1875... — Some men owned handcrafted knives (designed like this one pictured above) to more easily eat their food from knives, as opposed to learning how to use forks. 

'Knifing' of Food Went Out With 'Saucering' of Coffee


To the Editor of the New York Times:

Perhaps Charles U. Powell can use data from various parts of the country in clearing up the period when the fork replaced the knife as an instrument for carrying food to the mouth.

In the region within a radius of 50 miles around Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, the knife was commonly, but not always, used by men over 50, but rarely by those under 50, or by women, among “genteel people,” up to about 1875.

The change may have been due to a regard for the niceties of social usage. About the same. Those older men stopped pouring coffee into the saucer, and also removed the spoon from the cup when they drank.

That conditions varied in other parts of the country, and later seems indicated by the usage on steamers in the Great Lakes early in the century. At a certain stage, the steward put his head between the double doors in the kitchen and advised: “Keep your knives, gents; there's pie.”


It is interesting that in an early guide to etiquette, prepared by Christopher Dock, “the pious schoolmaster of the Skippack,” for his pupils, about the time of the Revolution, they were urged to not to convey food to their mouths with their knives or fingers, but only with forks or spoons. — George Dock, Pasadena California, October 1940



Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Monday, March 8, 2021

16th C. Russian Bride’s Etiquette

In the church it was etiquette for her to fall down at her husband's feet and to knock her head on his shoe in token of her subjection. —A late 19th century “Russian bride of the better class” in St. Petersburg, Russia 
                                             

Russian Women of Old

In olden times, the position of women in Russia was deplorable, and, as elsewhere, it has only improved by degrees. Herberstein declares that no woman was deemed virtuous unless she lived in domestic seclusion and was never seen outside the home; and Jenkinson says that except on their way to church at Christmas and Easter, or when paying visits, it was an accident if you ever saw a Russian lady. 

This habit has survived more or less even to this century, for Bremmer speaks of the women as “guarded with Oriental seclusion” and Théophile Gautier attests the same thing. So strong in the 16th century was the prejudice against women, that even fowls or animals killed by their hands were regarded as unclean; and often, if their husbands were absent, they might be seen standing at their doors and begging some passerby to perform for them the butcher’s office. In olden days, marriages were always arranged by intermediaries, and no one would have dreamed of a conducting his own suit.

One of the most popular changes affected by Peter the Great, was the regulation that no couple should be married without the consent of both parties, and that they should be allowed to meet for at least 6 weeks before marriage. The intending bridegroom sent his future wife such symbolical presents as needles and thread, raisins and fruit, and a whip. On the wedding day there was always the show of resistance on the part of the bride so common everywhere; that the bride would resist to the most uttermost leaving her house to go to the church, and with sob and make a great noise all the way thither. 

In the church it was etiquette for her to fall down at her husband's feet and to knock her head on his shoe in token of her subjection. It is said that for three days after marriage, she risked her character if she spoke more than a few words at meal time “with great manners and great reverence” to her husband. It was customary for husbands to make their wives and daughters an allowance for paint, and so fond were the ladies of this mode of adornment that Jenkinson compared them to millers' wives who looked as if they had been beaten about the face with bags of meal. — The Gentleman's Magazine, 1889



Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia


Sunday, March 7, 2021

Pre-Dunked for Politeness

That “nice people don't dunk,” a lamentable landmark in the evolution of etiquette, has deprived incurable addicts of one of their greatest pleasures. No longer, however, will they be obliged to suffer such valiant self-repression. Thanks to the invention of a ready-dunked donut, they may now indulge to their heart's content and still maintain social face.
Photo source, Pinterest

NEWS OF FOOD
'Custom-Dunked Sinker' Yields Thrill Without the Risk of Raised Eyebrows

The dictum that “nice people don't dunk,” a lamentable landmark in the evolution of etiquette, has deprived incurable addicts of one of their greatest pleasures. No longer, however, will they be obliged to suffer such valiant self-repression. Thanks to the invention of a ready-dunked donut, they may now indulge to their heart's content and still maintain social face.


This admiral device is attributed to the former chef of a famed restaurant in Hollywood, California. A man of sensitivity and insight, he perceived that the movie land élite, dining there in elegant conspicuousness, didn't dare dunk. His sympathy produced the ingenious circumvention of etiquette. The new donut is made by rolling the plane or garden variety in a mixture of coffee flavored sugar. The result is said to be every wit as satisfactory as the hand dipped species, and not nearly so prejudicial to one's prestige or the ones dry cleaning bill. These custom dunked donuts are being sold in many grocery and delicatessen stores about the city for 15 cents a dozen.


Still another revolutionary wrinkle has recently been added to the prosaic donut, which is to appear in training camp canteens, under the auspices of the Salvation Army, with a star-shape center, instead of the traditional circle. This patriotic pastry, great-grandchild of the round-holed kind, cut out with a baking powder tin and first served to doughboys back in 1917, will appear by the thousands this summer to be devoured by Uncle Sam's nephews. And the soldiers, it must be admitted, are taught to dunk!— New York Times May 7, 1941


Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Saturday, March 6, 2021

A Breach of Imperial Etiquette

 

Enjoying the cherry blossoms in Japan is a yearly event that the Japanese and visitors look forward to every Spring

Foreign Guests Violate Tokyo's Court Etiquette
Failure of several foreign guests to remove their overcoats in the presence of Emperor Hirohito at a cherry blossom festival was construed today by official Japanese sources as a breach of etiquette against the throne.

Some of the guests, they complained, kept their overcoats on despite signs posted in the imperial gardens prohibiting such apparel. Others, they said, wore "street clothes" instead of the prescribed formal afternoon dress.

Helen Keller, called “The Miracle Woman” by the Japanese, in tribute to her triumph over blindness, deafness and muteness, attended the opening of the historic cherry blossom festival. —The New York Times, April 1937



Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Friday, March 5, 2021

1958 Soviet Socialist Etiquette, Pt 2


From Part 1: People should not be forced to drink at the table. Forcing a person to drink more than he wishes is a sign of bad taste. When a lot of toasts are made, you must not always drink to the bottom. The glass should be held at the stem and not raised too high.


Russians Briefed on Socialist Social Conduct, Part 2


If Emily Post were to visit the Soviet Union she would probably be both amused and horrified by the state of etiquette here. Officially, etiquette does not exist in comradely, friendly Soviet society, for it implies the cold superficiality of bourgeois and Court life. As with both things here, etiquette is politics. 

For 40 years no effort at all was made to “inculcate” manners. But now, four decades, dozens of steel mills and thousands of collective farms after the revolution — with the advent of pink kapron (nylon) stockings, washing machines and frozen green peas — etiquette is being re-emphasized in Russian life.

The most important exposition of the new etiquette line has appeared in a volume called “For a Healthy Way of Life.” Among other things, this book treats of the material and moral foundations of Soviet life, the preparation of healthy food, hair hygiene, care of the teeth, how to dress tastefully, and how to have good manners.

Here are a few excerpts from the chapter on good manners, written by N. Gordienko:

Personal Hygiene and Dress

  • Everyone knows how necessary it is for good health and vigor to wash several times a day, clean the teeth morning and evening, go to the bath house or take a bath weekly (and in summer oftener), and so on. Yet, not all have developed in themselves a habit of doing these things constantly and under all conditions.
  • Any person who adheres to the rule of hygiene will not eat or drink from poorly washed dishes or will not wipe his face with a dirty towel.
  • He will not permit children to wipe their eyes with their hands but will teach them to use their handkerchief. 
  • Being neat himself, he will manifest concern for cleanliness around him. 
  • He will not extinguish a cigarette on a chair or drop ashes on the floor.
Women
  • The same general concern as shown to elderly people is merited by the Soviet woman — our mother, wife and child. This is natural. The Soviet woman selflessly labors side by side with the man. She manifests a tender, maternal concern for children, creates family welfare and comfort and has an ennobling influence on everybody. Finally, she is physically weaker than a man and this must be taken into consideration.
  • On the street, the woman walks to the right of the man (except with the military, and then to the left). 
  • It is not tactful to leave your woman partner on meeting someone in the street. 
  • If you have to talk to this person, introduce your partner and conduct the conversation.
Behavior in Clubs and Theatres
  • At the theatre, movie, circus or stadium the woman is always offered the better seat.
  • In many rural (and not rural) clubs, you can often see boys and girls eating sunflower seeds and when they leave there's a big pile of shells. There is no need to prove that such practices (eating nuts in public places) should not be done.
  • If you are with a woman at the theatre, it is indecent to read a book during the intermission. 
  • You should not make remarks during the performance.
Living in a Communal Apartment
  • A well-bred person will not turn the radio set on full force, will not sing loudly and on leaving will not forget to turn off the radio. 
  • He has the habit of knocking on the door before entering a neighbor's apartment.— T. Frankel for The NY Times, 1958



Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia