More Etiquette for Kaiseki Ryori

Kaiseki Ryori has been referred to as “ Japanese Haute Cuisine”… The elaborate, multi course meals and the ceremony surrounding them have earned this distinction. —

Photo courtesy of Elena Gavrilina-Fujiyama

Kaiseki ryori. Part 2

Link to Part 1 Here

Kaiseki ryori (懐石料理) is associated with the Buddhist religion of Zen and the tea ceremony. Buddhist priests, strictly following their teachings, used to keep hot stones (seki 石) in the pockets of their kimonos (kai かい) to make fasting more bearable and to better endure hunger and cold. This is the origin of the term "kaiseki ryori." Since Buddhist monks practiced vegetarianism, it was initially modest vegetarian dishes - in the kaiseki style - that were served during traditional tea ceremonies. Sometimes, kaiseki ryori encompassed the specific selection of foods associated with the cha-kaiseki - tea ceremony. It is believed that the aroma and flavor of the tea are enhanced when the person drinking it is not hungry; consequently, the term “kaiseki ryori” came to describe the light meal accompanying the tea ceremony. Kaiseki ryori dishes are primarily vegetarian. While they may occasionally include fish, they never contain meat, the consumption of which was forbidden to monks.

Thus, the history of kaiseki ryori is linked to the tea ceremony tradition and dates back to the Middle Ages. It is known that the earliest references to green tea in Japan appear in the manuscripts of Buddhist monks from the early 9th century. They were the first to sample this beverage in China, where they had traveled to adopt new cultural practices and acquire knowledge. Chinese green tea was introduced to Japan in the form of compressed bricks and tea plant seeds. The spread of the green tea-drinking culture in Japan dates back to the 12th century, thanks to the efforts of the monk Eisai (1141–1215).
Before the tea ceremony begins - which takes place in a dedicated tea house - it is customary to serve guests kaiseki ryori. This is because drinking strong green tea on an empty stomach is not recommended. 

Consequently, a light meal is served first, consisting of four courses: soup, a fried dish, a simmered dish, and a raw dish, with each course served only after the previous one has been finished. As previously mentioned, the kaiseki ryori style of dining was heavily influenced by Zen Buddhism; thus, the procedure was characterized by an absence of any excess. At the same time, the selection of dishes was always refined and costly - much like any work of art. The portions served were very small, and the presentation - featuring specially designed tableware - was exquisite, inviting philosophical reflection. For kaiseki-ryori dishes, the Japanese have traditionally used tableware created by renowned masters:

Imari-yaki (also known as Arita-yaki), produced in Saga and Nagasaki prefectures. The city of Arita in Saga Prefecture serves as the primary production hub for Imari-yaki; since the finished wares were shipped out via the city of Imari, they acquired that name. These wares are categorized into three groups: Iro-Nabeshima, characterized by red, green, and yellow colors; Nabeshima-sometsuke, featuring exclusively blue tones; and the bluish Nabeshima-seiji, made from crushed celadon raw materials.

Kiyomizu-yaki is a type of ceramic ware made from local clay and used in tea ceremonies. It is distinguished by a network of fine cracks - visible against the underglaze pattern - that form during firing in one of Japan’s most renowned kilns, established by Kiyomizu Rokubei in 1771. The name "Kiyomizu Rokubei" is borne by the head of the Kyoto-based Kiyomizu family of ceramicists. With a history spanning over 240 years, the kiln is currently operated by the eighth generation of masters under the leadership of ceramicist and sculptor Rokubei VIII. This "ceramic dynasty" has had a profound influence on the development of Kyo-yaki (Kyoto ceramics). For example, an antique set of Kiyomizu “hakeme” tea bowls by the legendary master Shimizu Rokubei IV (1848–1920) - featuring his personal seal on the bottom of each bowl - is valued at around 40 million yen (approximately 260,000 US dollars).

Karatsu-yaki - ceramics produced in the cities of Saga and Nagasaki using a high-temperature firing process - is notable for its iron-oxide-containing glaze. This ceramic tradition originated in Korea during the 15th and 16th centuries, with the first mention in Japanese chronicles dating to 1603. The only lineage of artisans practicing this technique today is the renowned Nakazato family; the fourteenth-generation master, Nakazato Taroemon XIV, continues to use his ancestors' kiln in the city of Karatsu, Saga Prefecture. The first Karatsu wares were created within the domains of the Hata clan (Kishidake, Saga Prefecture) in the late 16th century.

Kutani-yaki is a type of Japanese porcelain decorated with overglaze painting, originally produced in the city of Kaga (Ishikawa Prefecture). Kaolin and quartz were discovered in the Daishōji domain (present-day Kaga) in 1655. The feudal lord Maeda Toshiharu ordered the establishment of two workshops to produce overglaze-painted porcelain for use in tea ceremonies. This led to the production of two types of ware: “aote” porcelain, featuring surfaces covered in yellow or purple glaze, and “iroe” (polychrome) porcelain in shades of green, yellow, blue, red, and dark maroon. The technique of colorful tableware painting in Kutani was adopted from Kyoto artisans working in the Kyo-yaki style.

Kutani ceramics were showcased at the World's Fairs in Paris (1878) and Vienna (1873). Modern Kutani porcelain ranges from robust pieces -dense like stoneware or heavy porcelain - to the finest, almost translucent wares. Even today, most of these items are hand-painted, retaining the distinctive feature of having the design extend from the front surface to the reverse side.

The tableware described above vividly reflects the role these pieces play in tea ceremonies. However, it is not only the vessels that establish the ceremony's philosophical atmosphere, but also the food itself - kaiseki ryōri, intricately prepared by chefs.

Kaiseki ryori precedes the serving of tea, preparing the guest to appreciate the climactic moment of the entire event. The food should be varied, with portions that are neither too large nor too small. Dishes must not be repeated; at the same time, the full utilization of ingredients is encouraged (for example, using the leaves of a plant in one dish, the shoots in another, and the fruit in a third). The dishes should harmonize in color, taste, and aroma, evoking a sense of joy and comfort for the guest without weighing down the stomach; the appetizers served should convey a spirit of genuine hospitality and a desire to delight. It is also worth noting that the patterns on the tableware should reflect the current season or the theme of the tea ceremony.

                                                                 

By contributor, Elena Gavrilina-Fujiyama especially for Etiquipedia. Elena is a specialist in Japanese protocol and etiquette, and European social etiquette. The founder of the project Etiquette748, Elena is also a member of the National Association of Specialists of Protocol. She authored the best-selling book “Japanese Etiquette: Ancient Traditions and Modern Rules” after living in Japan for over 20 years. Elena recently was awarded the Diploma of the World Prize “Woman of the Russian World” in the category “Entrepreneurship” (Japan). The theme of the 2024 award is “Preservation and strengthening of the traditional family values.” 

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