The Etiquette of Kaiseki Ryori

Note the lack of a Western tradition of using serving utensils in one color and style. If you wish, of course, you can buy a set with many bowls, various plates and saucers, but this is not a requirement of good form.

 

Kaiseki Ryori

 

Kaiseki Ryori (会席料理) is an important part of Japanese dining etiquette. Translated from Japanese, it means "a meal served during a meeting." This style of Japanese cuisine, which is evident in the content of kaiseki ryori, is entirely original, which automatically increases the price of the meal. The art of “kaiseki” was shaped by several factors - most notably the culinary preferences of the Heian-period (794–1185) imperial aristocracy, samurai traditions, and everyday Japanese and Buddhist cuisine. “Kaiseki ryōri” gained its greatest popularity during the Edo period (1603–1868). The meal is typically served at large, traditional Japanese-style banquets held in rooms featuring Japanese-style décor. Guests sit on tatami mats, with three footed trays placed before each person: a main tray in the center and smaller trays on either side.

Over time, this style of Japanese cuisine became synonymous with the most exquisite dishes prepared for guests gathered to celebrate or simply to enjoy the pleasure of friendly company. “Kaiseki ryōri” also became an integral part of Japanese aesthetics, encompassing the appreciation of creatively crafted and beautifully presented food, refined tableware, the exquisite flavors and pairings of ingredients, and a skillfully composed menu - but above all, the joy of conversation and time spent together.

Kaiseki is often served at traditional Japanese hotels (ryokan) and high-end restaurants (ryōtei), but the most delicious and visually stunning examples of this style are found in Kyoto. Typically, kaiseki ryōri consists of 14 or more courses, each a work of art reflecting the chef's unique vision - from the carefully curated selection of dishes to their presentation on an individual low table for each guest.

The kaiseki ryori style must meet two fundamental requirements: -the serving vessels must be impeccably refined and elegant-crafted by renowned artisans - and reflect the highest standard of service; -there must be a balance of flavor, texture, and exquisite presentation, utilizing only fresh, seasonal ingredients - ideally of local origin. A specific menu is served for each season. Particular attention is paid to the presentation of each dish, often incorporating real leaves, flowers, and edible garnishes shaped to resemble plants or animals.

The Japanese place paramount importance on the visual presentation of a dish; the finest examples are regarded as works of art, and their creators earn the highest praise. Indeed, the concept of beauty - which lies at the heart of all classical art forms and the philosophy of the "Way" (“do”) - permeates every aspect of Japanese life, including cuisine, for classical national art has never been divorced from daily existence. 

Japanese chefs command special respect and are viewed as "poets" who create masterpieces with every dish they prepare.
Traditionally, a kaiseki ryōri meal includes “ichijū-sansai”, comprising four dishes: “ichijū” (miso soup) and three accompanying dishes: “yakimono” (grilled or roasted food), “nimono” (boiled or stewed food), and “namasu” (raw marinated fish). Rice prepared with seasonal ingredients is also an essential component. A sample “kaiseki ryōri” menu is as follows:

1. sakizuke – a small appetizer served at the beginning; 
2. gohan – white rice with seasonal additions; 
3. suimono – clear soup served in a small lidded lacquer bowl;
4. hassun – a selection of seasonal appetizers and side dishes that establish the seasonal theme (served on a tray with a diameter of 8 “sun” or approximately 24 cm); 
5. yuto – a lacquer vessel for hot drinking water; 
6. ko-no-mono – seasonal pickled vegetables accompanying the hassun; 
7. mukozuke – pickles or appetizers (served on the far side of the dining tray, while rice and soup in lidded lacquer bowls are placed on the near side); most commonly sashimi;
8. nimono – an assortment of vegetables and seafood simmered over low heat, served in individual bowls;
9. yakimono – grilled fish; 
10. takiawase – vegetables with meat, fish, or tofu, simmered separately; 
11. suzakana – a small dish to stimulate the palate, typically vegetables in vinegar; 
12. hiyashi-bachi – chilled vegetables, sometimes with shrimp or crab; served only in summer;
13. naka-choko - like suzakana, a dish designed to cleanse the palate, typically a sour soup; 
14. shiizakana - the main course; fried or simmered beef, poultry, or fish; 
15. tome-wan - the final soup, usually miso soup with various additions such as shallots, tofu, seafood, mushrooms, etc.;
16. mizumono - a seasonal dessert: fruit or ice cream.

Among the most popular types of kaiseki ryori, the following stand out: tofu-kaiseki (dishes based on tofu, complemented by various vegetables) and soba-kaiseki (featuring various preparations of buckwheat soba noodles). As a rule, the dishes are vegetarian, although kaiseki can include fish and meat.
Kaiseki ryori is one of the most expensive cuisines in the world. Restaurants serving this style of cuisine offer private rooms for diners -featuring either tatami mats or chairs - that often overlook a Japanese garden.

                                                            

By contributor, Elena Gavrilina-Fujiyama especially for Etiquipedia. Elena is a specialist in Japanese protocol and etiquette, and European social etiquette. The founder of the project Etiquette748, Elena is also a member of the National Association of Specialists of Protocol. She authored the best-selling book “Japanese Etiquette: Ancient Traditions and Modern Rules” after living in Japan for over 20 years. Elena recently was awarded the Diploma of the World Prize “Woman of the Russian World” in the category “Entrepreneurship” (Japan). The theme of the 2024 award is “Preservation and strengthening of the traditional family values.” 

🍽️Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber of The RSVP Institute of Etiquette, is the Site Editor of the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia