Edwardian Fan Fads and Etiquette

In sharp contrast to the minute painted and spangled fans, are the immense ostrich plume und marabou feather fans, also having mother of pearl or curved ivory sticks. In black, especially, are these fans effective, but with a red or a white gown, red ostrich plumes are quite gorgeous.

Edwardian Fashion Decreed the Use of Richly Ornamented Fans of Lace, Ivory and Spangles

Once more does the fan form a most important part of the evening costume. Long ago it was almost a breach of etiquette to hold a fan which was not in some way a work of art, either because of its material, its history, or more generally because on its side was inscribed the labor of some famous artist. Then for a while the fan became simply on article of convenience or of comfort — pretty, perhaps, and well made, but not remarkable in any way for beauty or originality. And so on down to the present day — at one time an article of great cost, and again simply carried because in the ballroom it is found pleasant to have one on hand.

Now, again, there is no limit to the price of a handsome fan, and so exquisite are many in design and detail that one examines them in the same way as one would a wonderful picture. Newest of all in popularity are the hand-painted fans, painted on finest silk, Set on slabs of carved und painted ivory and studded with glittering gold and silver paillettes. Strange to say, it is upon the tiniest fan that the finest workmanship is expended, although large fans have begun lately to return to popular favor. 

At first glance one is astonished at the prices asked for these small bits of silk and ivory, wondering of what use so small a fan could be, but on examination it is discovered that the miniature painted, or the landscape scene depicted in the work of one noted artist, and that the rhinestones and spangles are of the most expensive kind, while the mother of pearl or ivory handles are also almost priceless. 

Slowly it dawns that these are fans for ornament; not use, and yet with every evening gown there is now included a fan to match. If the color of the gown cannot be matched and no good contrast can be found, then the fan must need be made to order, and there are today many artists who would be only too glad to have a chance to show their skill in this miniature work.

In sharp contrast to the minute painted and spangled fans, are the immense ostrich plume und marabou feather fans, also having mother of pearl or curved ivory sticks. In black, especially, are these fans effective, but with a red or a white gown, red ostrich plumes are quite gorgeous. In the pale shades also, pink, blue, green, lavender, etc, feather fans are very handsome, and for the opera box, show up better than the smaller fans, although naturally not so beautiful.

The more spangles there are on fans, the better. This certainly holds good with a spangled costume, where all must be sparkle and brilliance. With lace and chiffon gowns, as well as with the spangled costumes, an elaborately spangled fan will frequently give just the one note necessary to the effect. The spangles are simply placed en masse, or some design is worked out—butterflies, flowers, the center of which are clusters of sparkling paillettes, or various ribbon bow-knot and garland patterns.

Then there are the lace fans, the lace being generally made to order to match the trimming of some gown and of a certain unusual shape. The lace piece then placed either on sticks of tortoise shell on which are set in gold the initials of the purchaser, or, again, jewel-studded ivory sticks are used. The most effective lace fans are in black, set on tortoise shell, the gold letters being the only note of color. 

White lace is also very handsome, set either upon shell or mother of pearl. Not only upon the main part of the fan, but upon the ornamentation of the sticks, does the responsibility for the beauty of the article rest, Not satisfied with carving, hand-painting or rhinestone jewels are now placed in fascinating display upon the delicate sticks. Turquoise and matrix are both effective, the rich blue always showing up well, but even rubies, sapphires and pearls are now set almost at random, to carry out the new design upon the sticks.– Los Angeles Herald, 1905

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia