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| In 1936, Hilda Leyel wrote in “The Ideal Picnic”, “The art of preparing cold dishes lies in choosing dishes that are better eaten cold than hot,” she wrote. This was a classic canon and an important rule of a European picnic. But the important Russian distinction and making of a Russian picnic, was the obligatory samovar, or rather many samovars. Yes, people went out into nature to enjoy spring, then summer, and to drink tea. - Above, The Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna with her granddaughters at a picnic. - Photo source, Pinterest |
Today, the word “picnic”, which is understood in many languages including Russian, too, usually means a short trip to nature or just going to the nearest park to have a good time in the fresh air and, of course, to eat tasty and pleasant food. This is really nothing new. People have spent their time like this for centuries.
People who lived in villages and worked the land often took food with them. European aristocrats loved hunting and, of course, ate out in nature too. Travelers ate on the road. Residents of large cities were always accompanied by “street food”, as we would say now - the own kitchen it was a luxury available just to few. Fires in cities were more than dangerous.
It is interesting that in Russia they traded “street food” not from stalls and tents, but stationary or mobile peddlers. Also known as “hawkers”, these peddlers of food for picnics (razhnosshiki and korobeiniki) were very popular. According to official data, by 1870 in Moscow almost 7000 people were busy in this field. They traded everywhere, including in Red Square. This ease of purchasing the necessary picnic foods saw more Russians flocking to picnics. A huge contribution to the development of picnics, of course, belongs to France and England. But Russian picnics, of course, had their own history and they created some interesting details.
The idea of city walks in Moscow came from foreigners back in the days of Peter the Great. In Russia, there was no tradition of celebrating “May Tree Day” or Maifeiertag. Muscovites may have looked at it with distrust at first, but then they decided that one more holiday was a great idea. Today I would say The First of May is popular in Europe and in Russia especially, and it still more or less starts picnic season. This is where “May Day” or “First of May” came from; political meetings that initially had nothing to do with the Bolsheviks and politics in general. But it was still a step towards the picnic format, but not yet.
In the 19th century, Moscow Governor General Prince Dmitry Golitsyn made the May Day festivities in Sokolniki (a park in Moscow that still exists) an official holiday, meaning that most educational institutions, shops and factories closed earlier on this day or worked until lunchtime so that workers and students could attend the May Day festivities.
It was an important city event. Since the time of Peter, all Russian Tsars, or members of their families, had the custom of attending May Day festivities. In Moscow the governor general himself always had his own tent for such an occasion. For the rich participants, this outing was an occasion to show off their new, most fashionable outfits and expensive carriages. For others, it was simply a pleasant stroll at the beginning of the warm season. It should be noted that it had such a social significance, representatives of all classes met here and did not distance themselves from each other, at least not in any obvious way. Russian Tsars and family members also loved picnics, according to memoirs and surviving photographs.
An important condition of European picnics, French and English, was the principle: do not cook anything, do not heat, do not cool, bring everything ready. In 1936, Hilda Leyel wrote in “The Ideal Picnic”, “The art of preparing cold dishes lies in choosing dishes that are better eaten cold than hot,” she wrote. This was a classic canon and an important rule of a European picnic. But the important Russian distinction and making of a Russian picnic, was the obligatory samovar, or rather, many samovars. Yes, people went out into nature to enjoy spring and then summer, and to drink tea. As soon as the Moscow public began, for example, to regularly come to Tsaritsyno (a park in Moscow) for picnics, and the opening of the railway line greatly facilitated this, enterprising people immediately realized where the business was here. They came up with the idea of renting out samovars with all of the necessary utensils.
Pretty soon, everyone who came for at least a day or even a few hours, had the opportunity to rent a samovar and have tea right there in the park. For those who did not want to rent a samovar, another option was available. Women who lived nearby, for example, Sokolniki, chose a nice place, decorated it as best they could, sometimes set up tables and benches, heated up a samovar and offered hot tea and even treats to those walking along the picturesque paths. Some had their own favorite and trusted women. And favorite samovars!
You could take food from “peddlers” ( small traders) or bring it with you, and that would definitely be a picnic. In addition, the concept of “a dacha” already existed in Russia. A dacha, known to many as a seasonal, second home, for a Russian is something completely special, like that very mysterious Russian soul and famous Russian nostalgia. At least, that’s what they write in classical Russian literature and that's our reputation in the world. A dacha is a special thing for all Russians.
The everyday life and etiquette of the Russian summer resident required a very thoughtful approach to this sacred pastime and status. The etiquette of the summer resident’s image was of utmost importance. It was not only about the location of the summer residence, but also about a million other details, from dress codes to the way one approached the kitchen, the way food was served, and the important question if the rules of etiquette were less strict in the countryside compared to the city.
It is crucial to understand that a “dacha” and a country estate, or manor (“pomestie”or “usadba”), were two very different things. If a manor is still a farm, then the whole idea of a dacha was that nothing like that could happen there. Of course, there could be a garden and even, in theory, a vegetable garden, but this was strictly for pleasure, not to provide or sell anything. Just for fun. However, life in a dacha is a lazy and unhurried life, with visits and picnics nearby. Picnics often led to acquaintances and even marriages. Reputation and etiquette details were of great importance.
Wealthy people had their own dachas, but in the 19th century, everyone could, or almost could, or could barely, try to rent something for the summer. Just a few could afford to rent both a city apartment and a dacha at the same time. So early in May, around large cities, the “big move” started, because everything was transported - all things and even furniture. In these dacha locations, their own life, their own rhythm and their own etiquette took place. Picnics fit well into the summer life of dacha owners. Those who did not have the opportunity to rent a dacha had to come to these dacha locations for a one-day picnic, of course, with a samovar. – By Kseniia Markova, 2025
🍽️Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia
