Showing posts with label Gilded Age Invitation Etiquette. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gilded Age Invitation Etiquette. Show all posts

Saturday, June 25, 2022

More Criticism of McAllister’s Manners


Nathan Lane as Ward McAllister and Carrie Coon as the fictional Berth Russell in HBO’s “The Gilded Age”

Another small portion of a dismal review of 

Ward McAllister’s book, 

“Society as I Have Found It”


The Paris dressmaker Worth receives an extensive advertisement throughout the pages of “Society As I Have Found It.” The author’s “distinguished” friends– an adjective which he applies indiscriminately to all of his friends, but which is quite superfluous, since we are perfectly aware from his own admissions that he would avoid the acquaintance of anyone who was not distinguished– are invariably described as having been arrayed in magnificent Worth gowns at the entertainments recorded in his book. The impression which he thus endeavors to convey, that the ladies in the foremost ranks of New York society get their dresses from Worth, is likely to create a considerable impression among his feminine readers in the Western and Southern States, and to prove of much pecuniary value to the once famous faiseur in question. 

For there has been a very marked decrease in the latter’s formerly important transatlantic clientele since the American élégante have at length began to realize that his Vogue disappeared with the fall of the Empire, and to discover that his European customers are almost entirely restricted to the wives of Levantine bankers and to the princesses of the stage and of the demi-monde. No leader of fashion in either London, Vienna or St. Petersburg, nor indeed any Parisian élégante, would ever dream of confining the construction and design of her toilette to the somewhat heavy hands of the Gallicized Yorkshire man in the Rue de la Paix, whose questionable and inartistic taste betrays his north-country origin, and who invariably strives to conceal the vulgarity of his coupe by overloading his creations with parvenu magnificence.

Mr. McAllister's readers, especially those who hope to derive from its pages social experience and a knowledge of etiquette, would likewise do well to avoid following too closely “the forms of invitations used by Mr. McAllister.” It is possibly owing to his connection with trade that he has adopted the commercial method of abbreviating words, such as, for instance, “yrs.” for “yours.” Abbreviations infer that the writer does not regard the person whom he is addressing as worthy of the trouble involved by writing out the word in full, and are therefore discourteous.

More over, it is hardly good form to refer in a letter to a “polite” invitation, while the expression “pray present me most kindly to Mrs. I and believe me yours, etc.,” must surely be an Americanism pure and simple, and the use of which is restricted to Mr. McAllister's “swell” friends. For it is certainly never used in Mayfair or Pall Mall. All these lapses, not only of language, but also of ordinary breeding and education, appear trivial, however, when we come to the appalling confusion of pronouns, which he introduces in his attempts to show his readers how to write a note in the third person.

In conclusion, permit me to express the earnest hope that young America will not regard as a model of European fashions, nor Europe consider as an example of American fashion, this feeble imitation of the Calais– not the London– Beau Brummel, whose manners, breeding, education and form are like his Huguenot legs– “very, very groggy.” –
 By an Ex-Diplomatist in the New York Tribune, 1890 


🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Tuesday, May 31, 2022

Gilded Age Invitation Etiquette

The invitations should be issued a couple of days before the party, that those asked may make their arrangements to be present and not be forced to refuse because of conflicting engagements.

Manners and Customs Practiced in Polite Society

Unless there is to be a large number of guests, verbal invitations are preferable to written ones for a lawn party, as being more in keeping with the informality of the entertainment. If notes must be sent, Demorest advises that they should at least be easy in tone. Couch the requests for your friends society in plain, direct terms. 

The following will serve as a model:

25 SUMMER AVE., GREENFIELD, N. Y.

DEAR MRS. BROWN:
MAY I have the pleasure of seeing you at a little garden party at my house, on next Tuesday afternoon, at four o'clock?
                                               Cordially (or sincerely) yours,
Sept. 7, '87.                                              M. B. GRAY


Never sign a note Miss or Mrs. anything. Let the name stand by itself. The invitations should be issued a couple of days before the party, that those asked may make their arrangements to be present and not be forced to refuse because of conflicting engagements. – Sand Diego Daily Bee, 1887


🍽Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Monday, April 18, 2022

The Only 400 According to McAllister


“It is incomplete and does injustice, you understand, to many eligible millionaires. Think of leaving out such names (from the official 400 list), don’t you know, as … Mr. and Mrs. Luther Kountze… and many others! Don't you understand, it is absurd, senseless.” According to Ward McAllister. Yet he himself did, when Mr. and Mrs. Luther Kountze were left off of his own list. 
Public domain image of Gilded age banker, Luther Kountze

THE ONLY FOUR HUNDRED

Ward Mc Allister Gives Out the Official List
 Here are the Names, Don’t You Know, on the Authority of Their Great Leader, You Understand, and Therefore Genuine, You See.
“The so-called Four Hundred has not been cut down or dwindled to 150 names,” said Ward McAllister yesterday. “The nonsense, don't you know, printed to that effect in the World and some other papers, has made a very had impression that will reflect badly against them, you understand. That list of names, you understand, printed on Sunday, did not come from me, don't you see. It is unauthorized, don't you know. But it is accurate as far as it goes, you understand.

“It is incomplete and does injustice, you understand, to many eligible millionaires. Think of leaving out such names, don't you know, as Chauncey M. Depew, Gen. Alexander S. Webb, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Cooper, Mr. and Mrs. Luther Kountze, Mr. and Mrs. Robert Goelet, Mrs. and Miss Wilson, Miss Greene, and many others! Don't you understand, it is absurd, senseless.

“Let me explain, don't you know. There are three dinner dances, don't you know, during the season, and the invitations, don't you see, are issued to different ladies and gentle men each time, do you understand? So at each dinner dance, you know, are only 150 people of the highest set, don't you know. So. during the season, you see, 400 different invitations are issued.

“Wait a moment and I will give you a correct list, don't you know, of the people who form what is known as the Four Hundred. Do you understand it will be authorized, reliable, and, don't you know, the only correct list.” The society leader then gave the following list of names, which, he declared, constitutes the beau monde of New York to-day:

    1. Mr. and Mrs. F. R. Appleton
    2. Fred H. Allen
    3. Mr. and Mrs. Ástor
    4. Mr. and Mrs. J. J. Astor 
    5. Mr. and Mrs. George H. Bend
    6. Miss Amy Bend
    7. Miss Beatrice Bend, 
    8. Mr. and Mrs. Lloyd Bryce
    9. Mrs. Cavendish Bentinok 
    10. Mr. and Mrs. F. Bronson
    11. Heber Bishop
    12. Miss Bishop
    13. William Harold Brown
    14. Mr. and Mrs. Edmund N. Baylies
    15. Mr. Temple Bowdoin 
    16. Mr. and Mrs. J. Townsend Burden
    17. Miss Burden
    18. Mrs. Barbey
    19. Miss Barbey
    20. Harold Brown
    21. Edward Bulkley
    22. Mr. and Mrs. James L. Barclay
    23. C. C. Baldwin
    24. Miss Baldwin 
    25. C. C. Baldwin, Jr.
    26. Gen. and Mrs. Henry L. Burnett
    27. Mr. Thomas Cushing
    28. Miss Edith Cashing
    29. Mr. F. Bayard Cutting
    30. Miss Coster
    31. Mr. Harry Coster
    32. Mr. and Mrs. Charles Carroll
    33. Mr. and Mrs. Clarence Cary 
    34. Mr. and Mrs. Winthrop Chandler
    35. Mrs Brockholst Cutting. 
    36. Mr. and Mrs. Harry Cannon
    37. Robert L. Cutting, Jr. 
    38. Col. J. Schuyler Crosby
    39. Miss Crosby
    40. Mr. and Mrs. W. Bayard Cutting,
    41. Mr. and Mrs. S. V. R. Cruger
    42. Rawlings Cottenet
    43. F. Brockholst Cutting
    44. W. Cutting, Jr.
    45. Sir Roderick Cameron
    46. Duncan Cameron
    47. The Misses Cameron
    48. Mr. and Mrs. James Cross
    49. Mr. and Mrs. Edward Cooper
    50. The Misses Chanler
    51. William P. Coster
    52. Mr. and Mrs. Elisha Dyer, II
    53. Mr and Mrs. Duncan Elliott
    54. Mr. and Mrs George B. De Forest
    55. Mr. and Mrs. Chauncey M. Depew
    56. Mr. and Mrs. Frederic de Peyster
    57. Dr. and Mrs. Francis Delafield
    58. Miss Delafield
    59. Mr. and Mrs. Paul Dana
    60. H. De Courcy Forbes
    61. Mr. and Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish
    62. Mr. and Mrs. C. G. Francklyn
    63. J. C. Furman, 
    64. Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton Fish, Jr.
    65. Theodore Frelinghuysen
    66. Augustus C. Gurnee 
    67. Mr. and Mrs. Ogden Goelet
    68. Mr. Frank G. Griswold
    69. Miss Greene
    70. McAllister Greene
    71. Miss Grant 
    72. Robert F. Hawkers 
    73. Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Howard
    74. Mr. and Mrs. Carly Havemeyer
    75. Meredith Howland
    76. Mr. and Mrs. Valentine
    77. G. Hall
    78. Miss Hall
    79. Joha A. Hadden, Jr. 
    80. Mr. and Mrs. Columbus Iselin
    81. Isaac Iselin
    82. Mrs. William Jaffray
    83. Miss Jaffray
    84. Mrs. F. R. Jones
    85. Miss Beatrix Jones
    86. Shipley Jones
    87. Mr. and Mrs. De Lancey Kane
    88. Nicholson Kane
    89. Miss Knowlton
    90. Miss Sybel Kane
    91. Mr. and Mrs. J. P. Kernochan
    92. Col and Mrs. Kip
    93. Miss Kipp
    94. Mr. and Mrs. Frederick Kernochan
    95. Clement March
    96. Mr. and Mrs. O. Mills
    97. Mr. and Mrs. B. Martin
    98. F. T. Martin 
    99. Peter Mario
    100. Mr. and Mrs. H. W. McVickar
    101. Mr. and Mrs. A.N. Morris
    102. Miss Morris
    103. Mr. and Mrs. R. Mortimer
    104. Miss Morgan
    105. Mr. and Mrs. T. Newbold
    106. Mrs. Frederick Nelson
    107. S. H. Olin
    108. Mr. and Mrs. O. Oelrichs
    109. James Otis
    110. Miss Otis
    111. Edward Post
    112. Richard Peters 
    113. Mr. and Mrs. B. C. Porter
    114. Mr. and Mrs. Frank Pendleton
    115. Julian Potter
    116. L.V. Packer
    117. Mr. and Mrs. H.N. Potter
    118. Gen. and Mrs. Pierson
    119. Miss Pierson
    120. Mr. and Mrs. George B. Post
    121. Mrs. William H. Perry
    122. Miss Perry 
    123. Gould H. Redmond
    124. Mrs. Rogers
    125. Miss Rogers
    126. J. Ritchie
    127. T. J. Oakley Rhinelander
    128. Miss Cora Randolph
    129. Mrs. Burke Roche
    130. Mr. and Mrs. S. O. Ripley
    131. D. T. L. Robinson
    132. R. K. Richards
    133. Mr. and Mrs. Douglas Robinson 
    134. Jr. Mr. and Mrs. H. Robins
    135. Miss Sands
    136. Mr. and Mrs. Willlam D.Sloane
    137. Mr. and Mrs. Philip Schuyler
    138. Mr. and Mrs. Byam K. Stevens
    139. Lispenard Stewart 
    140. Mr. and Mrs. W. W. Sherman
    141. Miss Adele Sloane
    142. Mr. and Mrs. Anson Phelps Stokes
    143. Miss Stokes,
    144. Mr. and Mrs. Walter L. Suydam
    145. Mr. and Mrs. F. K. Sturgis
    146. Miss Elizabeth Stevens
    147. G. Mead Tooker
    148. Miss Tooker 
    149. E. N. Tailer
    150. Mr. and Mrs. H. McKay Twombly
    151. Miss Taller
    152. Marquise de Talleyrand
    153. Miss Mable Van Rensselaer
    154. Miss Alice Van Rensselaer
    155. Mr. and Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt 
    156. George W. Vanderbilt
    157. Mrs. A. Van Rensselaer
    158. James Varnum
    159. Mr. Worthinglon Whitehouse
    160. Mr. and Mrs. W. Seward Webb
    161. Barton Willing 
    162. Miss Willing
    163. Gov. and Mrs.Wetmore
    164. Miss Wetmore
    165. Egerton Winthrop
    166. Thomas C. Winthrop
    167. F. B. Winthrop
    168. Mr. and Mrs. Buchanan Winthrop.
    169. Miss Winthrop
    170. Mr. and Mrs. Ben. Wells
    171. Mr. and Mrs. W. C. Whitney
    172. Miss Georgiana L. Wilinerding
    173. Mrs. C. A. Whittier
    174. Mr. and Mrs. Wysong
    175. M.A. Wilkes
    176. Mr. and Mrs. W. Storrs Wells 
    177. Gen. and Mrs. Alexander S. Webb
    178. Miss Carrie Webb
    179. Alexander S. Webb
    180. Miss Luck
    181. Arthur Leary
    182. Mrs. Maturin Livingston
    183. Mr. and Mrs. James Lanier
    184. Mr. and Mrs. Henry B. Livingston
    185. Edward Livingston
    186. Miss Clarissa Livingston
    187. Edward De Peyster Livingston
    188. Mr. and Mrs. Clement C. Moore
    189. Ward McAllister
    190. Mr. and Mrs. Charles N. Marshall

    “Now,” concluded Mr. McAllister, “that is all, don’t you know. Good morning.” — The New York Times, February 16,1892


    Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

    Tuesday, July 30, 2019

    Gilded Age Invitation Etiquette

    IN SOCIAL LIFE – “Instead of answers to the social problems already set forth in this column, more questions continue to be sent in, which, being of themselves tacit acknowledgments that the suggestions for solving previous questions have been satisfactory, are a compliment that is appreciated since the position of social oracle is a greatness that has been thrust upon the department, rather than one with which it was born, or for which it has ever had the temerity to seek to achieve.”

    Society Editor Herald – “A lady and gentleman, about to issue invitations for a society event, seeks information through your columns. As it is to be a joint invitation, by husband and wife, is it permissible to send invitations to the gentlemen friends of the host, and their wives,—all parties being of equal social standing—though the wife of the host may never, for many reasons, have called on the ladies? Would such action be just cause for unfavorable or invidious comment? Or, if it is not permissible, would it be “the proper caper” to invite the gentlemen and not their wives? Which action would show the spirit that should rule all society—true courtesy? You will, perhaps, say that the hostess should call on the ladies before the invitations are issued, but that may, under many circumstances, be impossible.”
    Courtesy First—Regarding the “just invidious or unfavorable comment.” The class of persons who indulge in such witless little pleasantries are oftener actuated by a spirit of envy or narrow-minded ignorance, than with any sense of justice, unless tbe cause for such comment be a flagrant breach of etiquette; and, except in the latter case, such persons should be charitably commiserated on their unfortunate and unenviable point of view. But, in order to avoid committing a flagrant breach of etiquette, it is as well to first be sure you are right and then go ahead in social, as in other matters. And you most surely would not be right, if you invited a married man without his wife under circumstances above set forth; on the contrary, it would be little less than an open insult to both the man and his wife. 
    Second—“All parties being of equal social standing” the circumstances which preclude a call before the issuance of invitations must be either ill-health on your part, or else that you have not lived here as long as the guests you would invite. Be that as it may, the wives should be invited if the husbands are to be; and since the calls have not and cannot be paid and the husbands are wanted for business or other reasons, the joint invitations should be sent to such gentlemen friends and their wives, with the visiting cards of both host and hostess enclosed. In such manner do you show not only the courtesy of an invitation, but that of a call as well from both your husband and yourself; and acceptance will follow if the guests know your reasons for not having actually paid the call; if not, and in the case of regrets, you have done all you could “under the circumstances” to show your courteous intentions. – Los Angeles Herald “Social Life”, 1895


    Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J Graber, is the Site Editor for the Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia